293-295 Railton Road,
Herne Hill,
SE24 0JP
0872 148 0806
Note: Calls cost 10p per min plus network extras.
The ViewLondon Review
Nestled away in the sleepy backwater of Herne Hill, Pullens is a hidden gem, serving as a quality cafe, bar and restaurant for those in the know for almost 20 years.
The Venue
Inside, there’s a simple yet elegant brasserie feel, with a teal green and cream colour scheme, wooden floorboards and walls lined with framed photos and pictures. There’s a smart restaurant space to one side, and a small relaxed bar to the other with neither taking precedence. Its large outdoor seating area adds real charm to the quiet enclave of Railton road and is a great spot to spend a lazy summer evening.
The Atmosphere
Pullens has an understated, pleasant ambience, acting as a cool cafe during the daytime and both a bar and quality restaurant in the evening. The staff are friendly and attentive, and there’s a real family feel to the business as it’s been around for years, giving it its own special character.
The Food
There’s a high quality evening menu drawing on multifarious cuisines, which changes each season, and prices are reasonable. For a starter try the roasted asparagus - on the menu all year round and a local favourite. It’s delicately cooked with a great texture and the aspargus flavour is accentuated by the seasoning. For mains sample the chargrilled Turkish meats, a selection of kofte and shish style kebabs, succulently cooked with quality lamb and beef and crisp roast red peppers, or the beef Rossini, a tender fillet steak wrapped in bacon and topped with a lush warm duck pate and Madeira sauce, which contrasts nicely with its subtle citrus tang. Specials to look out for include lamb in hay, a less-is-more classic, and the French favourite cassoulet, a rich slow cooked bean stew that’s full of Gallic authenticity.
There’s also a good selection of bar snacks, including a very reasonably priced moules frites, with juicy mussels in a finely judged sauce and perfectly cooked frites, and a selection of freshly made burgers, which are filling and tasty. To wrap it all off, try a sumptuous creamy brulee, in one of the gorgeous flavours like ginger and coffee - possessing just the right sweetness - or fresh and light nectarine.
There’s also a decent breakfast range on offer, with highlights including American classic Egg Baha (scrambled egg on a muffin, topped with cheese, salsa and sour cream) - slightly rich but perfect hangover food - and homemade muesli which is packed full of fruit.
The Drink
The range of wine is good and covers all tastes and budgets, ranging from about £15.00 to just under £30.00. Choice reds include Nieto Malbec Reseva and Cotes du Roussillons. For white, try Gavi la Bettistina or the Chablis Premier Cru Beauroy if you’re feeling flush. Moretti is the only draught lager available (sold continental style in half pints), but there’s a small but quality selection of bottled beers to make up for this, including Alhambra and Whitstable Bay organic ale.
The Last Word
Just because Pullens is slightly of the beaten track shouldn’t stop you visiting what is a fantastic local treat. Great for a meal, a relaxing evening drink or an easy breakfast, it’s well worth the train fare to Herne Hill.
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