Forget tacky wallpaper and lurid orange tikka masala, Quilon is the antithesis of your local curryhouse, creating elegant South Indian cuisine in a chic environment.

The Venue
From the outside, Quilon looks every bit as sophisticated and inviting as most posh London restaurants, and if you enter inside, you won’t be disappointed. Banished are the garish decorations in favour of stylish decor with a hint of Asian influence. The lines are sleek and clean, with warm lighting to create a soothing atmosphere. A large wall painting depicts a tranquil river scene, encouraging a gentle lulling of the senses. Subtle details like colourful tiling matching the candle holders, and bright, beautiful fresh orchids on every table add to the sophistication. The drab brown carpet does demean the style, but only slightly as your eye is drawn to the mirrors with bouquets of flowers, making a simple yet modern statement.

The Atmosphere
There is no formality whatsoever at Quilon, so many customers dress in a casual manner, but a few swish smartly dressed Londoners pop up here and there. The bulk of the clientele seem to be tourists, most of who have wandered over from the nearby hotels. Expect an older crowd than usual, but there is a calm feeling in the air with an effortless relaxing quality. The place easily livens up as the evening progresses but always maintains the soothing atmosphere. The smell of spices alone is enough to get you excited, and combined with the gentle, soft spoken waiters, your evening remains serene.

The Food
Head chef Sriam Aylur has endeavoured to promote South Indian cuisine through his cooking to prove to Londoners that Indian dishes are much more complex, and more posh, that most of us expect. His passion comes through as you read the menu, with many unique combinations of flavours and spices which give you a taste of something truly original, whilst pleasing even the most European of palettes with much of the hotness toned down. No wonder the restaurant was recently awarded a Michelin star. The prices reflect the style of the restaurant with starters for £6.50-£12 and mains for £9-£25. They have also recently introduced an Ayurvedic menu with low fat, healthy options based on a 5,000-year-old tradition that harnessing the healing power of foods will put your body in harmony.

The speciality of South Indian food is seafood, so it’s no surprise that the grilled scallops for starters are an excellent choice. There are perfectly cooked, with a delicate aromatic flavour of saffron that enhances the natural sweetness of the scallops. The lamb shank is much richer, with a fresh flavour of mint and a nutty flavour of the cooked fennel coming through, but the texture doesn’t melt in your mouth as it should. The Malabar chicken is a simple starter that is slightly dry, but has an earthy, spicy marinade that is emphasised by the hint of charcoal taste. For vegetarians, the Mini Masala Dosa has a woody mustard seed flavour with perfectly cooked soft potato and an interesting rice and lentil pancake that tastes delectably sweet.

For mains, don’t expect a greasy, heavy curry. Instead, fascinating dishes appear before your eyes, all of them beautifully presented in chic white bowls that emphasise the vibrant colours. The roasted tilapia in plantain leaf has a powerful spicy flavour that works well with such a light fish and comes with a crispy, fresh side salad. The Mangolorean chicken is a typical curry dish, with juicy chicken breast cooked in sweet coconut, fiery chilli and spices and finished off with a burst of cardomen flavour that makes it extremely more-ish. A gentle counteracting dish is the potato and cauliflower dish that has a soft caramelised onions combined with acidic tomatoes to coat crunchy florets of cauliflower and soft potato chunks. For accompaniments there are plenty of variations of fluffy basmati rice and, of course, Indian bread is a must. The Malabar Paratha bread has an amazing flavour of it own from being cooked in ghee (clarified butter) which enriches its taste.

For dessert, even if you think you don’t have room, there are still lots of dishes that will tempt you. The almond pudding consists of a slightly sweet, powdery pudding with a concentrated rose water and almond ice cream that plays on your tastebuds and urges you to take another spoonful. The almond yogurt has delicious crunchy almonds within the yogurt which has a light hint of orange that blends well with the nutty flavour. For something totally unique, try the Goan speciality of Bibaica and Dodhol dessert. The Bibaica is similar to a flourless cake that has a honeyed flavour and is very eggy in texture. Dodhol is similar in texture but has dark chocolate and nut flavourings that make it much richer, and both contrast the vanilla in the ice cream wonderfully.

The Drink
The standard drink with curries is of course, beer. Quilon doesn’t disappoint with a diverse list of beers that deliver a more refined flavour that those beers on tap down the pub. There are only a few classic cocktails done for a person who appreciates a strong alcohol taste, but the quality of spirits within them (all of which you can order separately) are good. The wine list attempts to cater for complex Indian flavours, and even though wine is not usually drunk with this style of cooking, it is a Michelin starred restaurant after all therefore the wine list must reflect that. Wines are split up into flavour categories that you can match with the type of curry you are eating, for example, classic white wines – honey and lemony. Prices aren’t cheap but you are paying for good wines, though purists will prefer the soothing mango lassi instead.

The Last Word
For a unique taste of India that is rare in London in such a stylish environment, ditch the curry house and head to Quilon.

venue information venue map view london review user reviews (2) image gallery (5) what's on