The Michelin Guide, once routinely criticised for being interested only in French food, has fallen in love with London’s Asian restaurants in recent years, particularly its Indians. Quilon, like Benares, Tamarind, Rasoi and Amaya before it, achieved a star in 2008. Two years on, chef Sriram Aylur is still producing subtle, clever, sometimes thrilling food that justifies the high(ish) prices. Shame about the room, though…

The Venue
Quilon’s dining area is an awkward L-shape with too low a ceiling. The decor is all inoffensive pastels, although a tropical jungle mural partially succeeds in bringing it to life. The biggest problem is the great chunky pillars which break up the space, and not in a good way. All in all, it’s hard to push aside thoughts of the breakfast room of a budget hotel.

The Atmosphere
All is moneyed calm. Indian families of several generations mix with old-money, middle-aged couples and groups of off-duty politicos from nearby Westminster. Dress is casual, as is usually the case these days, even at Michelin level establishments. The waiting staff are professional without being stuffy, and are happy to advise those unsure about how many, or what combination of, dishes to order. They are keen to steer diners towards sharing many small dishes, which seems slightly at odds with the fact that, whilst almost all the seafood options are available in two sizes, only full-size lamb and fowl dishes are offered. Service is unhurried, to say the least, which might irritate slightly, or delight if you consider actually being at a venue of this quality a major part of the experience.

The Food
….is what this place is all about. Dishes are refined, subtle, unusual and, in most instances, just downright delicious. Quilon specialises in west coastal cuisine so fish and seafood gets more of a showing than meat. There’s plenty for the vegetarian. Even with the peripherals, great attention to detail is evident.

Complimentary, miniature poppadoms disappear in the mouth with a whisper. Accompanying coconut chutney is creamy and subtle – perhaps overly subtle for some tastes – whilst the tomato equivalent delightfully deceives with a sweet and intensely tomato-y start following by a hefty chilli kick. Intriguingly, little chunks of crunchy, salty, spicy, charred lotus flower stem also arrive.

A starter of curry leaf and lentil-crusted fish (£8) is two modest tilapia fillets with a delicately-spiced coating. As with pretty much all its dishes, Quilon has the confidence to serve this absolutely unadorned, and rightly so; a dish this moist and moreish, where the subtle flavourings don’t overpower the main ingredient, needs no tarting up. Even better is half a dozen spiced stir-fried oysters (disproportionately cheap at £8, and surely deep-fried, not stir-). Oysters are such a treat, it sometimes seems silly to do anything more than squeeze lemon over them but here, fresh-as-a-daisy, juicy, flavoursome molluscs have been coated in a gritty crust of complex spicing then paired with blobs of sweet onion relish. It’s just fabulous. An intercourse amuse bouche - an intense glass of spicy, well-seasoned, clear tomato broth with the earthiness of lentils – proves very amusing indeed. A delicately sauced main of squid and shrimp (£9/£17) continues the theme of making gorgeous ingredients taste massively of themselves whilst successfully introducing other flavour notes. Chunks of shell-less pan-fried lobster with mustard cream sauce (£14/£28) is a creamy delight, although a bit more punch from the mustard wouldn’t go amiss, and some might like a bit more chewiness to the meat. Baked black cod (£12/£24) is the main course star; a thick, juicy, charred, molasses-coated joy of a fillet. Nobu, watch out!

There’s nothing to criticise about the accompaniments, either. Potato and cauliflower with fenugreek leaves (£8) is poshed up by turning the humble spud into little fondant balls. Lemon rice (£3) is perfectly cooked, properly lemon-y and a great foil for the seafood. A Malabar paratha (£2.50) is a gossamer-light, impeccably crisp, grease-free wow.

Of nine desserts (all £7 apart from mango sorbet for £6), bibinca (a Goan, multi-layered cake, here interspersed with seams of chocolate) and dodhol (a toffee-ish slab made with molasses and coconut milk) form a happy trio with quality vanilla ice cream. A trio of baked yoghurts, meanwhile, doesn’t seem particularly baked but does deliver delicious, clear pistachio, mango and orange flavours.

The Drink
Give that this is high-end dining, entry level for wines (£20 for either white or red) isn’t too much of a shock. The global list of over 60 whites and about the same number of reds includes a couple of Indian varieties. Wines are usefully grouped under titles like ‘crisp’, ‘fragrant’, ‘Chardonnay’ or ‘Bordeaux style’, although whether the categories ‘sensual’ and ‘generous’ help the chooser much is questionable. Big spenders can enjoy £225 whites (including Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru Dom Bonneau du Martray, 2003, Burgundy) or one of three £400 reds (Chateau Mouton Rothschild, 1996, Bordeaux, for instance). Much is available by the half bottle and an acceptable smattering by the glass.

Grenache/Marsanne Jean D’Alibert 2007 from Minervois (£6/£13/£25) is a crisp, refreshingly little number, more than acceptable at the price. Rose des Tourelles 2007 from Bordeaux (£10/£20/£40) is fruity but dry, clean and classy. Hit of the night is a gloriously satisfying Chateau Briatte, Sauternes, 2003 (£10/£35) with dessert; not too sweet, complex and with a huge bouquet.

There’s a short cocktail list (all £8 apart from Champagne-based varieties at £11) from which a cosmopolitan proves perfectly satisfactory. An impressive range of beers is on offer, everything from a rose lager from Alsace to no-nonsense Meantime Pale Ale from London to curry house lager stalwarts Kingfisher and Tiger (all £4.50 for 330ml).

Teas and coffees, all £3.50, similarly range widely, taking in lemon, mint or ginger infusions, masala chai, single estate first flush Darjeeling, lotus tea, and espresso, cappuccino, latte, filter and South Indian coffees.

The Last Word
If you’re prepared to spend £60 to £70 a head for three courses and half a bottle of modest wine, a meal at Quilon is truly a special occasion. One can’t help feeling, though, that chef Aylur’s exquisite creations deserve an altogether grander setting.

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