Randall and Aubin is tucked away behind the busy theatres of Shaftesbury Avenue and the capital’s cheesy clubland epicentre – Leicester Square. It serves fresh seafood and Champagne.

The Venue
This is a tiny former butchers and, given its popularity, it could easily be twice the size and still be packed with eager diners. There are small booths for two along the walls, while larger groups are catered for in the centre. The layout hasn’t changed much since its days as a butcher, except that steaks have been replaced with lobsters, and meat men with expert chefs preparing fresh fish and seafood.

The Atmosphere
Most people would think a Champagne and oyster bar makes for great setting for a romantic meal for two – Randall and Aubin, however, disagree. Instead of wooing you with some quiet ambient soundtrack, at night they play pumping commercial night house music at nightclub volume, which actually goes down very well with their cosmopolitan clientele.

This includes the queue of waiting diners who spill out on to the pavement (Randall and Aubin don’t take advance bookings). Those lucky enough to be inside are squeezed in with marginally more space then you would find on a Circle line in rush hour. Even the staff’s cheery demeanour can be tested by the sheer volume of customers and lack of space.

The Food
It’s classic seafood that is on the menu at Randall and Aubin, they don’t waste their time trying anything flash – and why should they when what’s on offer is done so well? There’s a large seafood platter with crab, rock oysters, prawns, shrimps, scallops, whelks, clams and mussels at £29.50 per person, all piled high for extra gluttony. Other dishes include the heavenly sweet, but not sickly dressed lobster and a chili crab linguini which has a subtle little kick to it.

Land lovers also do well with hearty sausage and mash, lamb cous cous and even steak, if you are so inclined. Vegetarians don’t do so well, with the closest thing you get to food without a face being starters and side salads.

The Drink
The wine and Champagne list is pretty comprehensive, taking in most of the major vineyard regions of the world. The focus lies in Europe, rather then the New World, with some great picks from the Liore Valley, including a golden and smooth Pouilly Fume. A variety of Champagne cocktails make for a fun aperitif, and ease the pain in the 30-minute wait you face waiting for a table. Coffees are rich and, like everything else on the menu, prepared fresh.

The Last Word
There will many who will dislike the dining experience at Randall and Abuin, first daters, vegetarians and those who value their hearing for example, but others will relish how vibrant it is. And anyone who values their taste buds will do a lot worse.

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