Let’s face it, Croydon is not exactly known as an oasis of haute cuisine. If the unthinkable happens and the car breaks down whilst on a Sunday excursion on route to the south coast, it would be advised to avoid loitering around the town centre, stepping over the leftovers from the night before, and instead make for Airport House along the Purley Way, where there’s a rather surprising diamond in the rough.

The Venue
Rayon d’Or (named after the plane with the first deluxe dining service that flew between France and England) is located in Airport House, a former London airport that’s now an events space and conference centre. The restaurant takes up a large, open plan room with oak panelled floors and two-tone mustard coloured walls which are bedecked with prints of airplanes and scenes depicting the airport’s history. Overall, the setting leans more towards an American diner than a 1920’s French brasserie. Memorabilia from a bygone era hanging from the walls and the Art Deco-styled wooden chairs add to the confusing theme but nevertheless still make for a comfortable dining experience without appearing pretentious or kitschy. Despite having covers for over a hundred diners, there is still enough space and elbow room not to be forced to listen to other patrons.

The Atmosphere
Primarily a family orientated restaurant, Rayon d’Or has won several awards over the past few years for its friendliness and service, which bodes well for any discerning diner.

The Food
The menu throws up a smorgasbord of surprises in a schizophrenic mock Americana setting with a throwback to the roaring twenties, but where the food is plentiful and wholesome. Here is one place where the choice of roasts (lamb, beef or chicken) proves to be tender and succulent. In fact, the huge plates are delightfully presented and pleasing both visually and physically, not to mention easy on the wallet at only £8.50 for the main course.

The presentation is not like that of a carvery, more akin to a chef who takes pride in his or her work and demonstrates imagination. The lamb is not only well cooked but plentiful, surrounded by various vegetables. One or two of the roast potatoes seem ever so slightly underdone, but there are enough on the plate so that it doesn’t matter. Desserts, including a sumptuous but calorific lemon pudding with clotted cream, will set you back £5.50.

The Drink
A reasonable wine list of popular tipples comprising of 14 whites starting at £12.50 for a bottle and £3.20 for a glass of Cuvee de Richard 2004 up to 2001 Chablis ser Cru Cave de Chablis at £28.50. The reds again start at £12.50 for a bottle of 2004 Cuvee de Richard, up to a £26.50 for a 2004 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Les Grandes Serres. For those feeling especially extravagant, a bottle 1998 Dom Perignon will set you back £120.00 although a bottle of non-vintage Brossault will cost £27.50.

The Last Word
Rayon d’Or is certainly a worth a visit if you find yourself in the proximity of Croydon. Its only real downfall, ironically, is its setting. It should be celebrating the history of Croydon Airport and making the most of those iconic images we have seen in Poirot (with some scenes filmed in and around the aerodrome), and yet the setting seems more like a half-hearted nod to the past.

venue information venue map view london review user reviews (2)