The Petersham Hotel,
Nightingale Lane,
Richmond,
Surrey,
TW10 6UZ
(020) 8940 7471
The ViewLondon Review
Despite being located only a short cab ride from Richmond station, The Petersham Hotel has the look and feel of a country manor. As you pull up the grand driveway, leaving the hustle and bustle of the city behind, you are transported back to the 19th century.
The Venue
The Petersham Hotel sits on the side of Richmond Hill overlooking the Thames and the surrounding countryside. The restaurant displays these stunning panoramic vistas to maximum effect, with windows that run the length of the dining area. The interior of the restaurant is decorated in neutral colours sensibly taking a back seat to the view. There is also a terrace, perfect for a pre- or post-dinner beverage on a summer’s evening.
The Atmosphere
For a high end venue, Restaurant at The Petersham draws a crowd even on a weeknight. The clientele is a mix of hotel guests, locals and those that have made the trip for the high quality dining on offer. The tables are well spaced so guests can enjoy a degree of privacy even when the restaurant is full and conversation rarely seems to rise above a low murmur. Sit in the corner, face the river and you can almost imagine you are in your own private drawing room. The service at Restaurant at The Petersham is incredibly slick; each member of staff knows their role and sticks to it, enabling a seamless flow between ordering and dining. The staff are attentive but guests are given plenty of time to deliberate and enjoy.
The Food
Simple dishes sit alongside far more intricate concoctions but at the heart of the menu is British cooking, using fresh, seasonal produce. Presentation is unfalteringly strong and without pretension. Of the starters the grilled quail (£13) is an exquisite dish. The quail is served on black truffle French toast, with sauteed oyster mushrooms and mixed greens. The rich flavours of the quail and truffle are finely balanced and the oyster mushrooms and sauce combine to create a hint of Asian influence in the dish. The seared red mullet and boudin of tiger prawns and smoked haddock (£13) is equally successful. The accompanying citrus couscous has a melt in the mouth consistency which almost threatens to steal the show from the perfectly cooked fish.
This quality continues through to the main courses with the seared duck (£21). Deliciously rare in the middle, the duck is served with an unusual date sauce, the sweetness of which works well with the rich meat. Furthermore, the beetroot puree that comes on the side is so delicious that it is worth the price of the dish alone! In comparison the plaice goujons (£22.50) with crab and sweetcorn risotto seems almost bland, although this more a testimony to the exceptional quality of the food as most restaurants would rightly be proud of this dish.
Save room if you can for dessert. Simplicity reigns here but is equally well executed. The light, creamy lemon panna cotta is complemented perfectly by the fresh strawberries that taste as if they could have been hand-picked that day. If you need a little time to digest, order the apple tart tatin which takes a little longer to prepare but is well worth the wait. Light pastry, tart apples and cinnamon ice cream might be a tried and tested combination but you are unlikely to find a better example than this.
The Drink
Restaurant at The Petersham has a cellar for private dining and wine tasting events and as such they boast an extensive wine collection with something to suit every taste and budget. Bottles start at £19 and range up to the best part of £300. There is also an impressive range of half bottles. The 2008 Sancerre at £17.50 is a fresh, crisp Sauvignon which makes an ideal accompaniment to the seafood dishes. The 2004 Rioja is a relatively light red wine with a bright claret colour and notes of cherries that works well with the duck. If you are at all baffled by the array on choice, ask the sommelier for a recommendation, you won’t be disappointed. For the ultimate indulgence you can enjoy your own quarter bottle of Champagne before dinner and continue the night afterward s with a dessert wine or cognac.
The Last Word
Restaurant at The Petersham offers good old fashioned luxury in setting of unrivalled natural beauty.
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