Hidden inside the Royal Exchange, Sauterelle is an inventive restaurant that’s well worth seeking out.

The Venue
A part of the large group of D&D restaurants, Sauterelle is situated on the mezzanine level of the Royal Exchange, an imposing, museum-like building right by Bank tube. The Royal Exchange has been through two fires (the current building is its third incarnation) and several different monarchs, but for now it’s part office building, part luxury shopping centre. The building also houses a brasserie, bar and cafe, but whilst they’re catered by D&D as well, what’s on offer is much simpler. Despite the fact that there are no windows in the restaurant, the most striking thing about Sauterelle is the view – courtesy of glass walls around the mezzanine, you can see down to the ground floor cafe and bar below, which stays busy late into the evening with everyone from boisterous groups of business partners to couples on awkward first dates.

Inside the restaurant, some sketches on the walls and intricate archways provide most of the decor, and the colour scheme of pale greens and blueish greys is relaxing and calming. Try to have a look at the massive paintings along the building’s inside walls – the best excuse is on your way to the loo, which requires a walk around the corner of the building and a trip down in a lift. The paintings are are so large that to see the bottom of them you practically need to bend over the railing. One in particular is especially stunning, painted in honour of Queen Victoria’s official opening ceremony in the 19th century. There’s also an impressive private room, with sturdy long table that would be good for business meetings.

The Atmosphere
As you’d expect from a restaurant on top of Bulgari and Cartier shops, service here is flawless, with staff getting just the right balance of familiarity and professionalism. Never too far away should you want more bread or a drinks top-up, they also know when to step back and let you enjoy your food. Other diners seem varied, from couples to larger groups of friends, but by and large it’s an older crowd.

The Food
The menu at Sauterelle is inventive and original, with familiar favourites given a new twist thanks to interesting ingredients. Everything is presented immaculately, with thought given to the placement of each and every item on the plate. Prices range from £9 to £12 for starters and £16.50 to £22 for mains, which isn’t unusual in a restaurant of this type in the City, but there’s a set menu option with trios of equally clever dishes priced at £18 for two courses and £21 for three.

From the choice of starters, beetroot gazpacho (£9 and also available on the vegetarian menu) is brilliant, a dark, vibrant pink with a robust, slightly salty taste. Cornish crab raviolo (£13) is a good sized portion, with the pasta stuffed with shredded crab and topped with a fresh coriander and lemongrass sauce along with crunchy pieces of samphire. A moist, tender diver scallop accompanies the crab. Sea trout tartare (£10.50) is also incredibly fresh, with a strong, slightly spicy tomato essence – almost like a cold, clear soup - that enhances rather than overpowers the flavour of the fish.

Halibut (£22) is perfectly cooked, but the real standout of the dish is the accompanying potato gnocci, which have a lovely, slightly doughy texture and square-ish shape that assures you it was made only recently. Other mains include an Anjou squab pigeon (£23), cooked exactly medium to bring out the gamey flavour and tender texture of the meat, and an Icelandic cod, which is delicately cooked, flaky and moist.

The dessert menu is just as well thought out as the mains and starters with an Eton Mess (£7) being a highlight. In a nice twist, it’s made with white peaches instead of the traditional strawberries, which balance nicely with the refreshingly tangy elderflower sorbet and crunchy honeycomb pieces. A dish of Italian cherries is ideal if you’ve overdone it with your previous courses, as the glossy cherries are indulgent and sweet but still light enough to fool yourself into thinking you’ve chosen the healthy option.

The Drink
A lengthy wine list of 16 pages features a majority of French wines, with other choices from North and South America, Australia, New Zealand and South Africa. There are eight whites, eight reds and two roses by the 175ml glass and 500ml carafe, with prices from a reasonable £4.25 a glass and £16.50 a bottle. Elsewhere prices range to £301 for a red Saint-Julien Chateau Gruaud Larose 1990 from Burgundy, but otherwise most bottles seem to range from £20 to £40.

If you’re not quite sure which wine best suits your meal, Sauterelle’s sommelier knows the menu and wine list inside out and can match them effortlessly. A glass of 2007 Pinot Grigio from Terra Alpina, Riff, Venezia (£6.50 a glass, £26 a bottle), for instance, is a slightly dry, crisp wine that works well with both the crab and the sea trout. A 2006 Chablis from Burgundy (£11 a glass and £45 a bottle) has a delicate citrus flavour, perfect with the cod, whilst a Givry Sous La Roche Michel Sarrazin from Burgundy (£11 a glass and £45 a bottle) is a ripe, rich match for the pigeon.

The Last Word
Sauterelle is a great choice if you’re looking to impress in The City, whether it be a date, a client or a group of friends.

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