A civilised and restorative - though atmosphere-free - haven when you’ve overdosed on art. Do those thronging the self-service cafeteria next door know what they could be enjoying for just a few pounds more?

The Venue
Tucked away in the basement, Rex Whistler is easy to miss, especially as there are no signs directing you to it by name, only to ‘restaurant’. Even if you do happen upon it, it would take a bit of nerve to cross the threshold into this hushed space. Far easier to grab a tray in the egalitarian cafeteria. As for the decor, we’re talking minimal black leather chairs, white napery and herringbone wooden block flooring. It’s all deliberately understated so as not to detract, one assumes, from Rex Whistler’s extraordinary mural, The Expedition in Pursuit of Rare Meats, which has been snaking around the walls since 1927. A line of four clunky white pillars down the centre of the room, and an uninspiring false ceiling, however, do detract, just a bit.

The Atmosphere
Sadly lacking at 3.30 on a weekday afternoon, but the tables that are occupied are filled with properly turned-out, middle-aged or elderly art lovers up from the shires, with the kind of accent you thought had disappeared in the 1950s. Staff, in Parisian brasserie uniform of white shirt, black trousers and long apron try to inject a little sunshine with smiley yet professional service. Even the odd tantrum thrown by elderly customers fail to dampen their bonhomie.

The sounds of the busier self-service cafeteria next door waft through into the restaurant. Do its customers not realise they are a wall away from a civilised occasion that would cost them little more than their mundane coffee and cake pit stop?

The Food
Traditional afternoon tea comprises three open sandwiches, three half-sized cakes and a pot of tea per person. The white bread which forms the base of the sandwiches is tasty and agreeably chewy, though this makes them a little difficult to cut (they’re too generously laden to risk picking up). Perseverance, however, proves worthwhile. A thick slice of good-quality boiled ham is much enhanced by a generous blob of crunchy piccalilli. An equally generous sliver of smoked salmon benefits, visually and texturally, from its intertwining cucumber ribbon. Pea shoots perform the same double service for perfectly okay egg mayo. In short, these sandwiches are well-conceived and -executed.

The three dinky cakes include the only dud, a dry baby mille-feuilles with the stingiest smear of cream filling. Things are back on course with a crisp tartlet of correctly sharp lemon curd-y custard. Best of all is a diminutive scone, bursting with sultanas and sparklingly fresh, with strawberry jam and clotted, not whipped, cream. This is an elegant and satisfying, yet not too filling, afternoon tea and a snip at £6.95 per person plus service.

For those who require more savoury mid-afternoon sustenance before returning to the Hockneys and Hepworths, there is Welsh rarebit with slow roasted tomatoes (£5) or beetroot and pea shoot salad with goat’s curd and chervil dressing (£6.50). Scones, jam, cream and tea are a very reasonable £3.75. The restaurant serves breakfast on Saturdays and Sundays (10am - 11.30am) when a full fry-up costs £6.95. Lunch is served every day (11.30am – 3pm) and is rather less of a bargain with starters at £7.50 (devilled kidneys on toasted sour dough; roasted wood pigeon with celeriac, walnut and sorrel remoulade), mains at £15.50 (boiled gammon with braised red cabbage and pease pudding; grilled fillet of mackerel with tomato, shallot and mint salad) and puds at £5.95 (steamed treacle pudding with clotted cream and (not or!) custard; pavlova). On the first Friday of each month, Rex Whistler also opens for dinner when a five set-course tasting menu, served at 7.30 prompt, with five wines, water and service that will set you back £60.

The Drink
There are 11 choices of tea with old favourites like Earl Grey and Assam along with more modish options like Organic Gunpowder Green, camomile and lemon verbena. A pot of Darjeeling hits the spot. It’s made from leaves, not a bag, and easily yields three full cups. A strainer with stand arrives with the milk and sugar, and lemon is offered as well. All the usual coffee suspects are present too, including espresso, Americano, latte and cappuccino. A glass of Billecart Salmon champagne at a reasonable £7.95 would be a temptingly decadent treat.

It seems a shame that a remarkable and comprehensive wine list that has won universal acclaim and many awards should only be available one night a month. How can one do it justice at lunchtime or mid-afternoon? The lower price range is taken just as seriously at the top end with many delights at under £20 (and far more if you’re prepared to go to £30) plus an impressive selection of half bottles and wines by the glass starting at a smile-inducing £3.95.

The Last Word
Unfortunately, this restaurant is bound by the museum’s opening hours, but if you’re there during the afternoon, afternoon tea is a thoughtfully designed, well executed, professionally served treat. It just needs a few more diners to add ambience.

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