Hailed as the friendly local Italian by it’s loyal following of regulars, Riccardo’s has its place on Fulham Road firmly established after over a decade of trading. But like a housewife who’s lived in her home so long that she no longer notices the clutter, you have to wonder if they’ve become a little blind…

The Venue
Nestled on the bustling thoroughfare that is Fulham Road, Riccardo’s is hard to miss; not least because its sprawling dining room has crept over the pavement in order to accommodate more patrons than its otherwise fairly minuscule floor space could afford. Covered by a removable, heavy-duty plastic awning that no doubt allows for enjoyable al fresco dining when the sun is (occasionally) shining, for the most part the overpowering feeling is that of dining inside Grandma’s dodgy conservatory.

And this isn’t helped by the decor. Uncomfortable wooden chairs predominate, with rather haphazardly-placed canister heaters dotted between tables for heat in the wintertime. The rest of the walls are pretty bland, with a style lying a few decades behind… and not as an intentional design statement. While Riccardo’s intention may be to provide a laid back, family venue that echoes mama’s kitchen, you don’t necessarily want to be eating in her living room.

The Atmosphere
Riccardo’s is well-known within its locality and as such, is never short of custom. It’s a busy but relaxed atmosphere, with a clientele of families and local suits, often on business lunches. There’s a definite lazy Mediterranean feel to the place and the staff are particularly friendly and attentive, without being overbearing. Most diners prefer to sit in the awning with a view onto the streets, but there can be a lack of privacy here when all of the tables are full and bustling. Towards the rear of the restaurant you’ll find tables are more generously spaced, allowing patrons to unwind a little more over their meals. And they’ll want to, as the nature of the food here promotes laid back dining that shouldn’t be rushed.

The Food
Riccardo’s ample menu centres on fresh, homecooked Italian food served tapas-style. Staff will recommend around three dishes per person, and encourage sharing with fellow diners to create a wider selection of tastes. With prices ranging from £4.95 for a Pappa Al Pomodoro (a thick, flavour-packed Tuscan tomato soup) to £15.95 for Branzino (fillet of Wild sea bass with asparagus, olives and cherry tomatoes), the prices certainly reflect the Chelsea location.

You can use the menu to opt for a more traditional three-course set-up (with many of the tapas dishes coming in starter or main-sized portions), but be aware that meat and fish dishes come as just that, so that any accompaniments must be ordered in addition as a side. The char-grilled sardines here (Sarde Alla Diavola, £7.75) come highly recommended, cooked well and dressed simply with garlic, herbs, lemon and chilli to produce moist, fishy flakes without unwelcome distraction. The Bruschetta Ammoghiu (£3.85) is somewhat less successful, using near-pureed tomatoes lacking in juicy crunch and skimping on what would otherwise be lovely, punchy fresh pesto. Main-sized dishes are very well-cooked for the most part, but somewhat ungenerous in certain cases. The Battuto Di Pollo for example (char-grilled chicken breast with olive oil, white wine and rosemary, £10.45) consisted a small piece of tender, moist chicken served on the bone and infused with an almost invisible but deliciously explosive buttery garlic drizzle… and little else.

There are of course some great fresh pasta dishes and as Riccardo’s caters for a diet/health conscious crowd, you’ll find wheat-free and gluten-free options in spelt penne and rice spaghetti (to name a few), while the vegan selection could fill a restaurant menu alone. There are enough interesting choices on the dessert menu to keep a sweet-tooth suitably satisfied, with ice creams in an array of flavours (including pistachio, amaretto and hazelnut chocolate) and more unusual choices like Pecorino sheep’s milk cheese with honey, and Limone Liquoroso (lemon sorbet with a shot of vodka) at around the £5 mark.

The Drink
Riccardo’s isn’t the kind of place you might sidle up to for fancy cocktails and bar-drinking, but there is an ample selection of interesting wines and beers available to accompany your meal. They also do a wonderful line in freshly squeezed-on-the-premises fruit juices. These are so fresh and so natural that you can almost feel the goodness slipping into you, and will wonder why you failed to notice that apple juice never really tasted of apples before.

The Last Word
Quite rightly, the best thing about Riccardo’s is its food. And whilst arguably a little too big for its boots, this is a venue that delivers on its promise of fresh ingredients and a relaxed family welcome. While you’re paying Chelsea prices for your food however, you can’t help but expect Chelsea surroundings to eat it in.

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