Ristorante Semplice

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10 Blenheim Street,
Mayfair,
London,
W1S 1LJ

0871 971 5757
Note: Calls cost 10p per min plus network extras.

The ViewLondon Review

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Review byMark O'Donnell08/02/2011
Recipient of a coveted Michelin star two years on the trot, Ristorante Semplice is actually part of a smaller, more exclusive club: it’s a Michelin star restaurant serving Italian food.

The Venue
Tucked just off Oxford Street, and moments away from Bond Street tube, Ristorante Semplice – Simplicity in case you’re wondering – is a posh, discreet little restaurant with around 30-40 covers on the ground floor, and a further semi-private dining area in the basement, although the loos are down here too so it’s not exactly behind closed doors.

Inside, the lighting is pitched at a sedate level and the most remarkable aspect of the design is a swirly effect painted in gold on a metal wall to the rear. Elsewhere, chocolate-colour banquettes are paired with smart chairs and crisp white tablecloths to keep things feeling pretty fancy.

The Atmosphere
International business types verbally joust in order to prove the size of their balls, while wealthy couple of a certain age sit quite happily in each other’s company. Clearly, the award of a Michelin star is good for business: there’s hardly a spare seat in the house and bookings are taken a month in advance on their website. As befitting an Italian restaurant, staff conduct most of the small talk and pleasantries in their native tongue – ‘prego’ and ‘grazia’ are among the well-rehearsed niceties.

The Food
Food fact for the day: Italian restaurants don’t receive as many Michelin stars as French ones. Le Semplice is one of a handful flying the flag in the capital and it does so by offering premium – and even rare – ingredients at premium prices. Execution by the kitchen is precise and consistently high; they let the ingredients work their magic rather than overcomplicate things.

Starters, of which there are seven or eight, include a monkfish (around £12) fried - but greaseless - in breadcrumbs served with dainty quail’s eggs and a lemony, white-wine-infused dip that brings a whole new level of vibrancy to the dish. A signature dish from their menu, the artichoke soup with Scottish langoustines, is a hearty blast, and it’s a dish that shows off their commitment to luxe ingredients – in this case shavings of black truffle from the homeland.

Naturally, there’s a whole section dedicated to pasta and risotto but, given that this is a moneyed international audience, a list of fish and meat mains appears most popular with diners. At just shy of £30, the fassone – a special type of beef from mainly female cows in Piedmont – is another trademark dish. The crimson, lean meat has a smoky crust and it is simply presented on a bed of garlicky, waif-like green beans. The amount of meat is noticeably large for a Michelin gaff, and with only a simple side salad and the beans, this is a dish that relies on the star quality of the beef. Not all the meat comes from Italy – the baby lamb is from the UK and it is paired with buttery spinach and polenta. A solid if not exceptional option.

Desserts aim to please. The ‘Domori’, a warm chocolate fondant served with whipped cream, cocoa-rich sorbet and crunchy bits of sweet crispy bread is a smile-enducing blast of gooey and crunchy textures, hot and cold taste sensations. Equally impressive is a tiramisu, which is a modern remix of the classic and one that packs a real caffeine kick.

The Drink
An exclusively Italian wine list is divided by region, but it’s not oppressive in price as it starts from just under £20 for a bottle of the house wine. Plenty of heavyweights are present – Barolos are available for around £125 per bottle – but for something in the middle, you can pay around £56 for a bottle from the south of Italy, which possesses a ripe thwack of violet and muddled fruit, with an earthy flavour and a hint of spice.

The Last Word
Simplicity is the perfect name for a restaurant that doesn’t overcomplicate or experiment too much. Luckily, the quality of the ingredients are of the finest provenance, the level of everything dispatched from the kitchen consistently high, and the whole experience polished and highly effective.
Ristorante Semplice has been reviewed by 1 users

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