Riverlounge Italian is an address to remember during the summer, where you can soak up the sun on the terrace, surrounded by the exclusive atmosphere of St. Katherine’s Dock. However, winter reserves great surprises: the restaurant turns quiet, dims the lights and becomes more formal.

The Venue
Riverlounge Italian is spread over the first floor of a sizeable pavilion that leads to the water's edge. Indeed, this building used to be a yacht club and the ground floor still has showers and other facilities for the moored boats. The first floor has been revamped into a clean-lined, no-frills and almost austere Italian restaurant - a teak-lined box with a distinctive shape, overlooking the water basin and the boats. The furniture is simple and functional: square tables with black tablecloths, matched with boxy chairs and cream upholstery. A large mirror and some large white and black couches at the entrance are the only elements providing diversity, with an end result that's formal but very suited to the upscale docks.

The Atmosphere
The atmosphere at Riverlounge Italian varies depending on weather and season. Winters are slower, while summers - thanks to three outdoor terraces - are heaving. There is something of the yacht club feel about things, with most customers perceiving this restaurant as rather formal. You will see plenty of couples having dinner dates and wearing little black dresses and smart shirts (often with jackets), although the smattering of groups tend to be far less formal. There's definitely Italian essence here - there's regional paraphernalia, traditional music and a staff that's entirely Italian, but it's not overpowering or tacky at all.

The Food
The Riverlounge Italian menu is equally as strong on meat as it is on fish. The menu comprises starters (£6-£8.50), only three pasta dishes (tagliatelle, tortelloni and risotto, £10.50-£13), meat dishes (£13-£18) and fish dishes(£14-£17). If you have the chance, call ahead and get them to prepare for you the pesce menu: the cold swordfish and salmon carpaccio is served on a bed of fragrant Italian fennel and is followed by stunning tagliatelle with squid ragout, topped with long slivers of raw asparagus. The tuna is not to be missed and well worth that phone call: perfectly cooked cubes of white fish still pink in the middle are placed on a surprising and delicious celeriac mash, and served with raspberry coulis and dark cocoa powder. Simply divine. Presentation is given plenty of attention and the food - including the indulgent desserts(£6.50-£7) - is crafted with care out of high quality ingredients.

The Drink
Riverlounge Italian offers two dozen bottles of wine (£18-£39) with only four available by the glass (£5-£7), including a fruity Chilean Sauvignon Blanc at a reasonable £17.95 for the bottle. Other highlight options include a 2008 Gavi at £27.95 and an excellent, classic Chablis at £34.95. Prosecco (£28)and Champagne (£50-100) are also available if you're looking to celebrate, or get swept up by the romance of waterside dining.

The Last Word
Riverlounge Italian indisputably does very good food, and although the atmosphere and general feel of the place may change with the seasons, that just gives you an excuse to try it twice.

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