Established in 1989, this is the only vegetarian restaurant for miles around. As the name suggests, it’s on the river, so when the weather suits try to grab one of the outside spaces - even though it's a little cramped out there, it’s still nice to watch the boats go by.

The Venue
The décor and menu haven’t changed much since it opened, with naff mock brickwork, hanging plants and faded cushions on the chairs that could all do with a makeover. The main seating area is down some steps and there are a couple of prime spots to the right, otherwise seating is tightly packed. Fresh flowers are a nice touch but the downside is they take up valuable table space. Upstairs there is more room, used primarily for large parties.

The Atmosphere
It’s something of a shrine for local vegetarians and definitely a mecca for vegans, so the slightly hippie, worthy vibe may be slightly disconcerting for some - expect Guardian readers, charity workers and the odd hand-knitted jumper. It’s open long hours and business is nearly always brisk, but don’t expect fast food service – laid back is the watchword. Staff are often stretched but pleasant and biddable.

The Food
The owner, Richie Sakthivel (a chef himself), uses his own recipes and trains all of his cooks. A blackboard of organic options (17 specials, 13 mains - over half of which are suitable for vegans and other special diets such as gluten-free) lets everyone know what's on offer. From a tiny kitchen, the meals are plated and nearly all served with the same salad, which is unexciting (lettuce, red cabbage, grated carrot, tomato, cucumber), but always fresh. Thick, green organic olive oil is imported from Italy and used to make their signature vinaigrette dressing. The complimentary garlic bread, produced using nutty-tasting organic wholemeal grain is pretty darn addictive.

For starters, the cream of sweet potato soup tastes a bit sweet, but the fried corn cakes served with plum sauce are more successful. Nut roast with mushroom sauce is served with a side of oven-roasted vegetables and apart from it being a little tepid, it's competently cooked, with the vegetables being nicely al dente. The red lentil and fresh avocado kedgeree served with a basmati rice mixture using cardamom and cinnamon sticks and a side of vegetable stew sounds wonderful but doesn’t quite deliver as it's just too bland. A sure-fire success however is the fried aubergine slices served with nutty brown rice, satay sauce and that ubiquitous side salad. Vegans will drool over the six puddings on offer, served with soya cream or soya custard.

The Drink
A real effort has been made to source both organic and vegetarian and vegan wines, and the rest of the drinks list is both extensive and imaginative. Cider and beer (including alcohol-free options) rub shoulders with fresh fruit smoothies and a great mango lassi that's particularly popular, and deservedly so as it’s not too thick and is pleasantly refreshing.

The Last Word
Hardened veggies love this place but omnivores might find it is a bridge too far. If you like vegetarian food with a lot of choice however, this could be the place you are looking for.

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