Roka already has a loyal following amongst Charlotte Street’s media community but can the contemporary Japanese restaurant cut the same swathe in Canary Wharf?

The Venue
If you’re a fan of fine food and drink, Canada Square’s Park Pavilion is the latest hotspot in Canary Wharf thanks to a spate of openings in 2009. Roka doesn’t disappoint. Not a single detail has been overlooked – from the flatteringly slimming mirrors in the lift whisking you up a flight to the immaculate presentation of the table settings and food. Unlike the Charlotte Street restaurant, Canary’s Wharf’s Roka doesn’t offer seating at a counter around the grill but there is a chef’s table by way of compensation.

The large cocktail bar at the front is simply styled with golden hued timber and sleek lines and the same subtlety extends into the restaurant area behind it. The Japanese design aesthetic of less is more ensures that the chefs and food become the focal point and it’s a relaxing space to retreat into away from the frenetic pace of corporate life in the capital. Tables for two are pushed close together at the sides of the room but the larger tables closer to the open kitchen and at the far side are more generously spaced apart.

The Atmosphere
The low level amber hued lighting imbues Roka with an intimacy that is all the more remarkable given the size of the restaurant whilst the rallying cries of the chefs every so often add drama – imagine a huddle on a sports’ field and you’re halfway there. Business lunches during the day make way for more relaxed, upbeat socialising in the evening when it’s easy to linger till late.

The Food
The prawn and avocado maki roll (£6.60) is a good way to start – the dark pink tails of the lightly fried prawns stick out next to a cress tree. The prawns are just the right side of crispy and contrast well with the soft flesh of the large chunks of avocado and the artful smear of wasabi mayonnaise and bright yellow chrysanthemum petals sprinkled over the top ensure that the dish looks as appealing as it tastes. The fried baby squid with shichimi and lime (£5.90) look like onion rings at first glance but one bite of the tender squid encased in a crispy tempura is sufficient to mark it out as a more-ish starter although you’ll struggle to finish the portion even when it’s shared between two.

Nowadays black cod is the litmus test of a contemporary Japanese restaurant’s competence and Roka Canary Wharf rises to the challenge admirably. Faultlessly presented, the vast slab of black cod (£22.60) is placed inside a large leaf that’s singed to look autumnal and doubled round on itself to make a parcel. Sweet but not at all sickly, if you’re sharing the dish the large chunks of fish marinated in yuzu miso are so sublimely cooked that you’ll start moving your chopsticks in double quick time in case you miss out on a mouthful. The scallops (£10.60) are also cooked on the robata and the combination of wasabi and shiso works well to add heat to the dish without compromising the delicate flavour of the scallops.

If you prefer red meat then the Japanese grill is still a must and could teach the Aussies a thing or two about grilling meats. The 200g sirloin steak (£15.90) is finely sliced with a very thin layer of fat around the edge which has practically melted into the steak so that the meat is full of flavour and the accompanying chilli garlic sauce adds further depth. The lamb cutlets with Korean spices (£18.90) are more like lamb lollipops and the springy meat is so spicy and tender that you barely need to use your teeth to separate it from the bone.

Even the finest Japanese restaurants can fall down when it comes to desserts but Roka Canary Wharf excels. Fans of Sobach tea will be pleased to find its delicate flavours in the creme brulee that’s accompanied with smoothly spicy ginger ice cream (£5.90). However, the Poki ice cream (also £5.90) is by far the most impressive dessert. The large portion of pale pink, Japanese candy flavoured ice cream is served on a gigantic slab of ice and marries childhood tastes for sweet candyfloss with the adult sophistication that you’d expect at a restaurant of Roka’s calibre.

The Drink
The sake selection is extensive and is divided into cold, hot and shochu available by the glass or carafe. The list of bottles is just as long and categorised on the menu as sake, special sake and plum and yuzu sake, ranging in price from £18 to £210 depending on the size of the bottle and the quality of the sake.

If you’d rather sample the wine, there are again plenty of options available by the glass or the carafe which works well with the Roka ethos of ordering a wide variety of dishes to share. The Trimbach Riesling Reserve 2006 (£11 per glass, £32 a carafe) hails from Alsace and is a light well balanced white with plenty of floral notes. If you prefer a richer red the Te Mata Woodthorpe Gamay Noir 2008 (from Hawks Bay, New Zealand) is a good choice as it’s robust without being overpowering, smooth on the palate with the rich berry flavours adding depth.

The Last Word
From the superlative service to the impeccable cuisine, Roka’s famed attention to detail certainly hasn’t been compromised at its second location in the capital. You’ll leave the Canary Wharf restaurant with your clothes smelling of open fires courtesy of the robata grill but consider it the smell of success. Roka has set the standard for dining experiences in the area sky-high and it’s one worth smelling of smoke and stretching the budget to enjoy whenever you can.

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