The Japanese with the nice-looking rack disappoints with its skewers.

The Venue
Despite being known for its rectangular robata (open charcoal-grill), the grill itself actually looks none too impressive; it is the space surrounding the robata that maketh Roka's decor.

Above the robata hangs a sturdy steel-blue vent hood whose appearance resembles mother of pearl when lit up. From this central area, tables begin to fan out - starting with the polished but extremely uneven planks of thick wood that skirt the grill area, to the self-supporting (less uneven-surfaced) tables that line the wood-planked walls at the back and the glass walls in the front.

In an attempt to inject more character into the venue (and supply a curious topic of conversation), the wall across from the robata is encased with pickling jars filled with liquids of from deep purple to amber.

The Atmosphere
For a restaurant that has a working open charcoal grill as its centerpiece, the air in Roka is surprisingly clear. Being able to leave lunch with a clean-smelling shirt is probably the reason Roka is so frequented by corporates. The same probably applies to the rest of its clientele of ladies (and babies) who lunch.

Service, for the most part, is brisk. Although it is important for Roka to get its corporate clients out of there as soon as the bill is called for, she treads the thin line between being efficient and being pushy with its other clients. It does not help that dishes are served as and when they are ready, not when they should be ready; to begin on a main course before the starter arrives is disrupts the flow of a good meal.

The Food
The Japanese menu extends beyond its culture to include Korean and Thai flavours, but draws the line at European. While the grill lives up to its name with well-executed dishes like ko nasu (eggplant in mirin, ginger and soy), it disappoints when it comes to its famed skewers and seared tuna. The skin of the eggplant is roasted to a crisp yet firm texture while its insides are turned into a tender, chunky puree. The beef and asparagus skewers on the other hand, are presented with inedible bits of joint, and the tough, unappetizing seared tuna is overcooked and lacking in taste. It seems the extravagantly plated ROKA dessert platter may be the only redeeming factor of the meal.

The Drink
With the renowned Shochu bar located right below, pretty much any drink is on the menu, from trendy cocktails to classics to bottles of wine.

The Last Word
This eye candy needs to step up to its grill if it wants new customers coming in the door.

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