Having lost its Michelin star last year, Roussillon brings in a new head chef to try and get it back. And with one already gained for his work at the Ynyshir Hall Hotel, Shane Hughes could be the man to do it.

The Venue
Tucked away amongst the very homely homes of well-to-do Pimlico, Roussillon fits in well, mainly thanks to being very homely itself. An understated, softly lit exterior with an elegantly flicked motif leads diners into a surprisingly warm and welcoming restaurant that feels ever so slightly like a living room. But a very nice living room… one that you’d like to dine in, in fact. Swathes of white and olive green adorn the walls and tables, contrasting nicely with the warming ruby red curtains and the soft graphite carpet, creating an interior that balances elegance and comfort really well. Sketches of bulbs, roots and other culinary staples don’t exactly whet the appetite but do add to the homely feel, whilst the colourful flowers that are dotted about brighten things up just like flowers tend to do.

The Atmosphere
Roussillon sits comfortably in the elegant surroundings of the neighbourhood. Entering the restaurant feels similar to being welcomed into the warm surroundings of one of the many salubrious homes around these parts; the Roussillon team are attentive to your needs, knowledgeable about their fare and maintain the relaxed balance offered by the comfortable surroundings.

The Food
Roussillon focuses on combining the best of fresh British ingredients with classical French cooking, resulting in an impressive range and complexity of options on offer. The menu is split into a seven course set taster menu (£65-£75) or a three course traditional menu with a range of options (£65). The thought that's gone into the menu brings together quality traditional ingredients and a smattering of seasonal specialities that showcase the class of the new chef and his team. This particularly shines through in the vegetarian options, for which Roussillon remains rightly renowned.

Set around your choice of courses, the team produce tempting tasters that bring together simple flavours with great effect. Cheese balls and homemade piccalilli offers the sort of punch that you’d like to stick in your pocket and take down the local. The first course option of pig and langoustine with artichoke and oyster leaf perfectly balances the rich flavour of the meat and seafood with the fresh blast of the oyster leaf. Cauliflower velouté with spiced lentils comprises straightforward ingredients delivered with decent taste; a light creamy top accompanying a firm lentil base.

The trio of lamb cutlets, braised shoulder and sweetbread kicks off the main course options with real class. The char-grilled cutlets taste fresh off the campfire spit, although the rare centre may not be to everyone’s taste. The sweetbread with aubergine purée is simply delicious, melting on the tongue with just the right level of smokiness through the puree. If anything, the strength of the first two leaves the shoulder of lamb a little difficult to recall, even if few diners will come away from it with anything less than a delighted smack of the lips. On the vegetarian side, the risotto of girolles mushrooms with oyster leaf and grated black truffle is a rich, warming dish that fits perfectly with the warm surroundings and feels ideal for a cold autumn evening. Again, the use of oyster leaf brings a light lift to the dish, but the lack of texture does begin to leave you wishing it had a little more bite.

The dessert options are knock-your-socks-off good. The warm treacle tart with walnut ice cream, banana crisp, clotted cream and orange confit hits home like a bag of childhood sweets. The combination of the rich ice cream and the sweetness of the confit melt perfectly into the tart, offering the type of treat that finds smiles of satisfaction across the restaurant. For those looking for something lighter the raspberries in champagne panna cotta with sable biscuits is the perfect option. The sweet panna cotta sits beautifully with the sharpness of the fruit while the biscuit offers that little hit of texture to bring the tastes together.

The Drink
The wine list reaches across the globe, but its heart rests solidly in the south west of France with a voluminous range of bins. Prices start at around £25 and range up into the vintage bottles at hundreds of pounds. The 2008 Cote du Py Beaujolais is a beautiful bright red and offers light fruit flavours with real versatility.

The Last Word
Roussillon remains a very impressive venue with a menu of real quality. It certainly looks like it's on the right track if it wants to regain that star.

venue information venue map view london review user reviews (5) image gallery (8) venue hire book a table