Rowleys epitomises pure old school Britishness. And, in this case, that is most definitely a compliment.

The Venue
Rowleys has a great location, in the ‘posh’ part of Piccadilly, amongst the smart suit shops that line this area of central London. The exterior is simple and appears almost pub-like, but this is no watering hole. Inside is charmingly old fashioned: of course, the tables are covered in pristine white tablecloths and the many – many – mirrors that cover the walls lend a pleasant feeling of space to the not-small-to-begin-with room. They have steered clear of neutrality with dark pink and green walls and ornate clocks, although the wooden flooring lends a certain stripped-back appeal. It certainly has a heritage style that works.

The Atmosphere
Despite being located a two second walk from tourist central, Rowleys mainly avoids the crowds of excited visitors, instead pulling in businessmen and women from the surrounding area. Expect sharp suits and semi-obnoxious, loud conversations about just how busy and important they are. Luckily, the staff are wonderful and make the experience of eating here enjoyable. They have a great knowledge of the wine and food menus and offer adept recommendations for pairing.

The Food
British, naturally. Expensive, of course. Rowleys knows its target audience and appeals to them perfectly with its menu.

For starters, the slow roasted tomato soup with creme fraiche isn’t cheap at £7, but it is good. The soup has a deep flavour that can only come from homemade soups, with a delicate sweetness that’s heightened by the creaminess of the creme fraiche. Also good is the press confit of duck and foie gras terrine (£13.50), although the terrine could do with being stronger in flavour, instead of relying on the excellent spiced marinated baby onions to lift its flavour. For £13.50, that foie gras flavour should hit you like a tonne of bricks all on its own.

For the main course, it has to be the steak, which is what Rowleys is known for. And yes, it’s pricy, but it’s delicious and beautifully served. The char-grilled entrecote is £34 for a 10oz steak (£25.50 for the 6oz) and it comes served on a hot plate with a self-contained heater. The meat is an excellent cut, served perfectly cooked to specification and it comes with unlimited French Fries (yup, go nuts!) or a portion of delicious chunky chips, which are clearly homemade and full of flavour. A very nice touch is you can have a second steak if you’re – incredibly – still hungry after your first one for just £12.

Desserts (£7.50) continue to keep it old school with a lemon tart containing a wonderfully buttery pastry and a deep, tangy lemon flavour with a delicate sweetness. If you can manage it, the cheese plate is also excellent, but you have to have a seriously large appetite to finish it as the portion is huge.

The Drink
They do a small selection of cocktails here, priced at a pricey £12.50. Of course, they only include the classics, such as a Kir Royale, Cosmo and Martini, but the Bellini is probably the best for pre-dinner drinking. Balancing the sweetness of the peach with the dryness of the champagne, it’s really very well mixed. Alternatively, there’s a great choice of wine, including old and new world bottles, covering a range of regions and grape varieties. You certainly won’t have any trouble finding the perfect wine to pair with your food – something the waiting staff are particularly good at recommending.

The Last Word
Rowleys just goes to show that the old ways are sometimes the best. It may come with a high price tag, but if you want good old fashioned Britishness then this is the restaurant for you.

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