Part of a group of five Royal China restaurants, this Canary Wharf location is hugely popular with those looking for authentic Hong Kong style dishes.

The Venue
Royal China in Canary Wharf is located along the riverside, amongst a stretch of restaurants right near the water by Westferry Circus. The restaurant has a glossy black bar at the entrance, head to the right and you’ll find the restaurant, a large square room decorated with a mural of golden birds along the far wall. Floor to ceiling windows let you look out onto the Thames during the daytime, and come nightfall you can see the lights sparkling from across the river at Rotherhithe.

The Atmosphere
Royal China is incredibly popular, packed full even early during the week with customers keen on getting a fix of authentic dishes. The majority of the diners seem to be Chinese – always a good sign when you find a restaurant that aims at authenticity. Although there are a few couples, most diners are small groups of four or more. Service is abrupt and not entirely on the ball when asked for help choosing dishes – it’s probably easier to see what neighbouring tables are ordering when looking for recommendations.

The Food
The menu at Royal China is massive, so much so that you don’t know where to start. In actuality there are three menus, the a la carte menu, a small book of chef specialties and a laminated menu that looks like it might be lunch specials, but contains the same dishes as in the main a la carte menu. Prices seem high, even for the area, especially given that the menu tends to work better when you share a few dishes, but judging by the packed restaurant the crowds don’t seem to mind. Three set meals are available (for two or more people) concentrating on seafood (£38), vegetarian food (£30) and house specialties (£30). Mains can range anywhere between £8 to £20, with several dishes priced depending on season or market value. Although many choices look familiar, some – shredded chicken with jellyfish, sliced preserved pig’s knuckle – are ones that you won’t find on a takeaway menu anytime soon.

There’s a lengthy dim sum menu of original options like steamed satay cuttlefish, chicken and mushroom buns and chicken feet – spicy and marinated versions. Minced pork dumplings with shrimp (£2.65) are cooked well, with a chewy steamed pastry encasing a flavourful mouthful of minced meat. Crispy prawn rolls (£6.50) from the a la carte menu are steamingly hot but not too greasy, packed with a mix of shrimp and vegetables.

Larger dishes include sauteed Chinese broccoli, which has a crisp crunch and is lightly coated in a savoury sauce, and small, round cakes made of fresh prawns and scallops. A lobster dish is presented prettily with the head at the top of the plate, tail at the bottom and de-shelled meat in the middle. Whilst the ginger and spring onion sauce balances well with the sweet, delicate flavour of the meat, it would be nice if more attention was paid into removing the meat, as most of the pieces contain little bits of shell. A peppery duck dish is cooked well, rich and meaty, but the peppery sauce is a bit overwhelming after a few pieces – it’s best soaked up with a side of rice. A fruit cocktail for dessert, made with grapes, melon and lychees, is cool and refreshing.

The Drink
A two page wine list provides ample choice of bottles from both Old and New Worlds, with a bottle of Tartara Bay Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough New Zealand (£22) a rich, fruity option. White wines go up to £49 and reds to £42, but a separate list of fine red wines reaches £288. Champagnes are priced up to £260 for a bottle of Cristal. There are only two choices by the glass for both red and white, either £5 or £5.50, and their accompanying bottles of house wine are £18 and £20 respectively.

The Last Word
If you’re prepared to spend and choose your dishes wisely, Royal China offers an authentic experience.

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