Opened in 1980, RSJ was one of the first real restaurants to appear at Waterloo. Thirty years on it is still a definite cut above most eating places in the area.

The Venue
Having reviewed RSJ (it stands for rolled steel joist) at the beginning of its career, it is interesting to see how it fares thirty years on. Apart from a few cosmetic changes by way of decoration, it’s much the same and the food as good as ever. It’s near the South Bank Centre, which now has its own conglomeration of mainly chain eateries on its doorstep. RSJ is a one-off, an independent restaurant ploughing its own furrow very well. The upstairs room is bright, light and airy, with tables spaced well apart and Christine Keeler chairs (as seen in Lewis Morley’s famous photograph) – comfortable but not plush.

The Atmosphere
At lunchtime RSJ attracts serious business people, with early evening catching the South Bank crowd. It really is a nice place – no rush, no crush, just a welcome oasis far enough away from frantic Waterloo Station or the constant traffic heading across Waterloo Bridge. Coin Street is off Stamford Street on a quiet corner a tad removed from the custom of passing trade, however, after thirty years RSJ has its own reputation and regular customers who trust a well constructed menu and a lovingly compiled wine list.

The Food
Expect the unexpected in a menu that includes beef fillet and scallop carpaccio, tian of dressed crab, gazpacho and crostini, Suffolk pork cheeks with crispy bacon, sauteed king prawns, squid and clams or saddle of English lamb. The vegetarian options include leek, sun-dried tomato and potato frittata and Provencal stuffed peppers. Many dishes may be ordered as starters (£5.95-£9.75), but the fixed price menu at £16.95 for two courses or £18.95 for three is exceptional value. A starter of pan-fried sardines with new potatoes, watercress and salsa verde is a delicious example of seafood cooked perfectly.

The cherry tomato and broad bean pesto bruschetta is an open toasted sandwich, with the vegetables making extraordinarily tasty toppings and joined by a red onion and rocket salad. For main courses the seared Dutch calf’s liver could not be bettered, cooked to taste and served with a salad and asiago - the Italian cheese - new potatoes and a tomato chutney to add extra zing. Home tea-smoked chicken consists of really succulent slices on an outstandingly refined Caesar salad. It seems to contain a whole gem lettuce heavily doused with grated cheese and splendidly tangy Parmesan croutons – a simple but simply marvellous dish.

Desserts are a difficult choice: iced amaretti parfait, chilled blackcurrant, redcurrant and mint soup, coffee and milk chocolate brulee or the rosewater buttermilk panna cotta. Gooseberry bakewell tart is a nice variation on an old favourite, and the lemon and raspberry tiramisu is a soft and creamy delight, tasting more of raspberries than lemon.

The Drink
The wines are a serious matter - with many available by the glass from just £3.95 - with a short list of house wines for the non-cognoscenti, a white, a red, a rose and a couple of fizzy options (£16.95-£21.95). The remainder consists of a regularly changing list of recommendations from around £18 to £30 per bottle and an exhaustive list of Loire and other regional French wines priced up to £125. The 2009 Saumur blanc at £16.95 is a thoroughly reliable and pleasant wine.

The Last Word
It’s good to see that after thirty years RSJ has lost none of its sparkle and is still bringing good food and wine to an area not over blessed with exceptional restaurants.

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