A former institution now doing a tame take on bangers and mash.

The Venue
Essex Road, the road on which this branch of the Sausage and Mash Cafe (S&M) sits, is always bustling – a constant stream walks to and from the nearby Camden Passage and Angel tube station, and red double-decker buses whiz by every couple of minutes.

The cafe replaced the famed Alfredo's caff, a North London institution where greasy comfort food was dished out for about 80 years and classic movies were filmed. As a tribute, S&M has restored the interior to its Art Deco years, and the building has been listed as Grade-II. The two medium-sized dining rooms (separated by a half-wall) therefore have been, and will be preserved for future generations.

The Atmosphere
The interior has a clean, classic and functional feel with an authenticity projected by the faded wall panels, sky-blue Vitrolite tables, worn wooden chairs and red booths. Service is friendly and efficient, clearly a good sign for the fussy kid diners who frequent... and the adults, and the odd celebrity, enjoy it too.

The Food
For the most part, it's a five-step mix and match sausages and mash menu. The concept is simple but the actual pickings are hard, only because the choices S&M offers all sound delicious; there is the traditional Cumberland sausage and the exotic-sounding Wild Boar with Apple and Calvados. From £7.70, one can have two or three sausages (depending on the chosen meal) with a side of mash and gravy.

Unfortunately that is where the excitement fizzles – when it comes to taste, the S&M "London" Traditional sausages and the Lamb and Mint sausages are not too different - apart from the mint flavour and the mild essence of lamb, both are visibly charred on the outside and chewy and fatty inside. The mashed potatoes are curiously smooth and the gravy thin and bland. The side of minted peas (£1.75) look a bit more promising, but still taste plain – probably a result of using dry, flavourless mint.

The Drink
There is a wide selection of hot, cold, fizzy, flat and alcoholic drinks. Grab a Fentimans drink (botanically brewed soft drink - £2.95) or a vintage bottled Orangina (£1.95) for a complete traditional experience. If you prefer, beers are served by the bottle and start from £3.10 each. Wines also start from £3.10 per small glass, and £10.95 per bottle. In the red and white wine categories, they cover almost every wine-producing country.

The Last Word
Classic British fare in a diner better known for its old glory days and decor, even now.

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