299 Portobello Road,
Notting Hill,
London,
W10 5TD
(020) 8968 4590
The ViewLondon Review
Fitting like a glove into Notting Hill’s cool ethnic mix, this little Mexican delight serves well-researched traditional cuisine to a local crowd.
The Venue
Feeling like it’s been here for years, the recently opened Santo has not only found its feet but has picked up a loyal following on the way. Sitting at the top end of Portobello Road, its pavement space sports four tables. Inside it’s a long rectangular venue modestly done out in white with shiny wooden flooring and functional cafe-style square wooden tables, seating around 40 people. Walls covered with paintings of the agave plant, a Mexican symbol par excellence, separate the main room from the back bar which is decked out in whites and dark pinks.
The Atmosphere
Cool, funky and unpretentious, Santo attracts a local crowd (including some well known music and film types) who simply want to relax, as well as market browsers at the weekend. Daylight floods in through the glass facade and, in the evening, the place is illuminated by candles on the tables and two big art deco lamps in the ceiling. The background music is unobtrusive ambient jazz, Latin and soul.
The Food
The menu is mix and match with about 20 burritos and around ten tacos, alongside enchilladas and quesedillas—as well as four proper main courses for traditionalists. Accompaniments include requeson, a creamy local cheese which is mixed with chopped onion and green chilli, and guacamole, which has a traditionally lumpy texture. But steer clear of both and go straight for the star of the starters, the tostadita de Jamaica. It’s a crisp but chewy round corn toast topped with refried beans and caramelized onions mixed with hibiscus and it’s an absolute delight, marrying flavours and textures wonderfully, all at only £3.
One of the tastiest burritos is the Birria (£6.98), filled with small chunks of slow-cooked lamb which melt in your mouth and come in a rich sauce spiced with cascabel chilli. But the most popular dishes here are the tacos with their various toppings (£5-£9). The king prawns with garlic and chilli taco is pretty much as you’d expect, but on a higher level is the Cochinita Pibil (£8.50), a taco topped with pork, which is marinated in orange juice and then slow-cooked in banana leaves with native achiote seeds. It is soft, sweet, tangy and satisfying.
For non-meat eaters there’s plenty of fish and seafood. One of the main courses is the Chile Relleno de Queso (£15), which are green poblano peppers stuffed with goat’s cheese. They are soft and delicious and come swimming in a shallow pool of a tasty thin tomato sauce (candillo) and accompanied by rice and refried beans. The desert menu is short (three dishes), the best of which is the vanilla ice cream with stewed pumpkin in molasses (£3.50), which is as satisfying as it sounds — sweet, sticky and sumptuous.
The Drink
With the Margarita Bar in the back, you can just get merrily sloshed here on the nine margaritas. The Margarita Santo is essential though: it’s sweet and sharp and is made with fresh pineapple, hibiscus and cardamom with mild chilli powder replacing salt around the rim of the glass (£8). But the margaritas are outnumbered by the tequilas, of which there are over 20, including the wonderful oak-aged Don Julio Anejo (also £8 a shot). Otherwise there are the native Bohemia, Pacifico and Modelo beers and there is a short wine list (£16 - £36 a bottle). The Mexican hot chocolate is a firm favourite at brunch.
The Last Word
Santo has found its way into the hearts of locals and visitors alike with its cool, low-key, arty vibe and tasty authentic local food.
Santo has been reviewed by 9 users