Saran Rom is an opulent, lavish, royal-style Thai restaurant on the river in Fulham.

The Venue
Due to its location on a rather soulless upmarket riverside development in Fulham, Saran Rom had some trouble pulling in punters when it first opened. But things have picked up a little and its prime location is now attracting more of a crowd. It is a large, opulent, three-floor building and much of the interior is a replica of the royal Vimanmek Palace in Bangkok with its big lanterns, intricate dark teak wood carved panels, silk drapes and antique furniture (imported from Thailand).

There is a bar downstairs with floor-to-ceiling windows and a large terrace outside on river level. There’s also a bar on the top floor as well another dining space. The owner already has two restaurants in Surrey, but this is by far and away his most ambitious venture. Tuk tuks can take you to and from the station, but have to be booked with the reservation.

The Atmosphere
The staff are charming and compliant and the place attracts a mix of local residents, moneyed City types and the odd celebrity, so it’s good for people watching. The dark woods give it an air of weighty history and elegance — almost like an old-fashioned gentleman’s club. Benefiting from its south-facing position on the river, it’s light and airy in the day, but becomes more intimate and dimmed in the evening.

The Food
For starters, served on a trendy triangular plate, the deep-fried crab and chicken is good, although perhaps overshadowed by the amount of batter. The fishcakes are pleasantly spongy and come with the traditional zingy chilli dipping sauce. Other options include chicken and beef satay skewers, papaya salad and the classic spicy tom yam (prawn and mushroom) soup.

Main courses are divided into grilled, fried, seafood, curries and vegetarian. The recommended lamb curry is a good choice: flaky with its rich, sweet and spicy coconut gravy — the highlight of the meal. The stir-fried minced chicken with chilli and Thai holy basil is also very good in its pungency and spiciness (£12.50), but the accompanying sticky rice seems like it has been waiting around for some time and has to be cut with a knife. There is also king prawns with coconut milk, pineapple sauce and chilli and char-grilled seabass in a banana leaf with Thai herbs (£18.95). For dessert, the steamed coconut and pumpkin custard is an interesting combination; perhaps an acquired taste for the Western palate. There are ice creams and sorbets for the less adventurous—and you can’t go far wrong with polamai sod yang—barbecued fresh fruit served with a warm chocolate liqueur.

The Drink
As well as all the classics, the cocktail list includes some concoctions with a Thai twist such as the refreshing, ginger-infused Phi Phi Bliss and Siam Sling (Bombay Sapphire gin and Cointreau). The wine list is comprehensive though pricy — bottles range from £17.50 to (deep breath) £235. Viognier works well with Asian food and there’s a Lazy Lizzard Languedoc 2005 for £18. Singha and Tiger beers are also served.

The Last Word
Although in danger of overstretching itself in its opulence (given its relative inaccessibility), Saran Rom nevertheless boasts impressive surroundings and, chosen wisely, some good cuisine.

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