Sardo could very well be Sardinian slang for beautifully sourced, fresh ingredients, presented simply and cooked well.

The Venue
Although a mere spitting distance from Charlotte Street, the location of Sardo, tucked down a tributary to Tottenham Court Road, makes it seem a little off the beaten track. From the outset the experience is gilded with a self-congratulatory, gleeful air for having found such a gem in the first place. The decor is modern without succumbing to the identikit, yet cosy without verging towards the parochial.

The Atmosphere
Sardo caters for a wide crowd. Proximity to University College and the media moguls of Fitzrovia mean that the voices of businessmen, academics and students all reverberate around the dining area to make for a lively mix. The overall effect is welcoming and unpretentious, a description that extends to both staff and clientele.

The Food
The menu itself serves as an appetizer. The choice is restricted to four or five options per course and the Sardinian edge to these Italian classics means that each dish is recognisable, without surrendering to the formulaic.

The specials board offers seasonal treats such as burata di bufala and culatello con asparagi as antipasti, while primi include crespelle con ricotta e spinaci (pancakes filled with ricotta and spinach) and fregola con gamberi e zucchine (a type of risotto with mussels, prawns and courgettes). A secondo of fegato di vitello al balsamico (calf liver served with broccoli and peppers) was sublime; the meat was perfect, at once yielding and rich and the broccoli al dente. The sauce however, although beautifully latticed across the plate, was a little scarce for the quantity of meat. The Dolci are sublime, an order of panacotta yields a comforting vanilla cream accompanied by a tart raspberry sauce to balance out any sickliness.

Unlike most Italian restaurants, Sardo produces portions that are conducive to the traditional Italian four course menu, meaning that the uninitiated may well go home hungry if they deviate from the plot.

The Drink
The wine list offers Italian classics and a wide selection of local Sardinian wines – with the Denominazione d’Origine Controllata (DOC) label featuring as heavily as one would expect from a restaurant that places such emphasis on sourcing.

The Last Word
Sardo has its priorities straight. These reasonably priced dishes offer such depths of flavour and texture that they can only be the product of ingredients of the highest quality. Food first should be the motto inscribed over the door.

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