20 Saville Row,
London,
W1S 3PR
0872 148 2423
The ViewLondon Review
Saville Row is home to some of the finest tailors and some of the finest Italian food as well thanks to this former Conran, now D&D gem.The VenueSartoria stays true to its location roots, and the theme of tailoring runs throughout the restaurant. Mannequins man the door and a button print adorns the plates. The venue itself is bright and chic, with big lamps, white tablecloths and comfy seats to sink into between courses. There’s an open kitchen so you can see what’s going on, and there’s so much floor space that you don’t feel crowded.
The AtmosphereVery laid back and intimate. Despite its prime location just off Regent Street, it doesn’t seem at all crowded, and the clientele are mainly business people who have filtered from the surrounding offices. Large groups are consigned to private rooms so any rowdiness doesn’t disturb fellow diners. The staff are extremely attentive and happy to advise and help in any way.
The FoodThe menu boasts Italian cuisine with a contemporary twist. It’s set out in the traditional Italian way – there are starters, pasta that can be ordered as a main or a starter and main courses of fish and meat. Chicken broth stracciatella is delicious and full of rich chicken pieces, whilst artichoke tortelloni with langoustine is almost too fantastic to just have as a starter, with a great balance of flavours and textures with the meaty seafood and smooth filled pasta.
A main course of mushroom risotto is perfectly cooked and gooey with Parmesan, and not overpowered by the mushroom flavours. Veal Milanese is just as it should be, with a wonderfully crispy coating over soft and tender meat. Side orders are almost as tasty as the main courses, with spinach served with garlic and broccoli topped with Parmesan both holding their own with simple and stunning flavours. A traditional tiramisu is a great end to the meal, with a heady mix of coffee, cream and chocolate, whilst the richness of a flourless chocolate tart is offset by the sharpness of its accompanying kumquat compote.
The DrinkNot surprisingly, Italy is the dominating force on the wine list. Sartoria claims to have one of the most extensive Italian wine lists in London, and with more than 400 to choose from, this is no mean feat. Wines are divided by region, and the prices range from around £18 a bottle to more than £500. A sommelier is on hand to help with choices, and there are dessert wines as well. There’s a full bar, including Italian beers, for anyone who might fancy a foray outside the world of wine. For an after-dinner tipple, there’s a range of grappa and amaro as well.
The Last WordGreat Italian food, great atmosphere and a great location – there’s not much to dislike about Sartoria, and plenty to get passionate about.