A dependable Malaysian restaurant in Paddington serving authentic, tasty treats.

The Venue
The Satay House in Paddington has been popular with locals and visitors since 1973. It’s in a quiet street away from the bustle of the train station and has a boutique look from the outside, with its red awning and large expanse of glass frontage. Inside it’s relatively small and cafe-like with its low ceiling and mix of small and large round and square tables, all in dark wood, with accompanying wicker chairs. Down a narrow staircase is another dining room with a large alcove around the corner, ideal for parties.

The Atmosphere
The feel of The Satay House is subdued and understated. One of the nice things about it is that it’s frequented by plenty of Malaysians and welcomes children. The staff are Zen-like in their calm and consideration and don’t mind being quizzed at length about the food (which, having said that, could be better explained on the menu).

The Food
If you’re not having it as a main course, satay (six skewers for £6.10) is a good idea for a starter to share. The peanut sauce is deep and spicy and the chargrilled cubes of chicken and lamb are tender (there also vegetable versions). Other starters include begedil, which are deep fried meat and potato balls (£2.50), and traditional chicken or lamb soup (£3.50).

For mains, there’s squid in a thick tomato sauce, which comes with a fully justified hot spice alert. The mutton mysore comes in a hearty tomato and red pepper sauce and the chunks of meat are was flaky, flavoursome and tender (£6.20). One of the tastiest dishes, however, is the kangkong belacan, translated as ‘water convulvulus’ but also known as water spinach and water morning glory, which are crunchy native greens fried in shrimp paste and chilli. The roti are thick and spongy and soak up the sauces, including its accompanying dalca (a sambar in southern Indian cuisine).

Desserts include ais kacang (sweet red beans, jelly, creamed sweet corn, shaved ice, red syrup, palm sugar and evaporated milk), which is bright pink and comes, rather spectacularly, in a tall knickerbockers glory glass. The bubur pulut hitam on the other hand—a gloopy, purple coconut milk dessert with chewy grains of black rice (popular in northern Malaysia)—is warm and more suited to the colder weather.

The Drink
The wine list is very reasonably priced with the smooth house red or white (the French Cave De Masse, Cave Foncalieu) coming in at £11.75, or £10 for a glass. Beers include Singha, Tiger, Indonesian lager Bintang and Malaysia’s own Anchor (£2.90 a bottle). Then there are the coffees and teas, which include the incredibly sweet tek tarik tea, made with condensed milk.

The Last Word
Locals are lucky to have such a good quality, reasonably-priced, well-presented restaurant on their doorstep. For others, it is certainly worth a trip.

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