Savoy Hotel,
Strand,
London,
WC2R 0BP
(020) 7592 1600
The ViewLondon Review
Enjoying the same kind of astoundingly expensive facelift as the very grand hotel itself, Gordon Ramsay’s Savoy Grill certainly looks befitting of its famous host, with food that just about manages to match the impressive setting.
The Venue
Every synonym of opulence should just about do this place justice – it’s every bit as lavish as you would expect from somewhere that’s just had a multi million pound refurbishment that’s perfectly in keeping with the worldwide reputation of the Savoy Hotel itself. Designed by the Russell Sage Studio, it’s undeniably impressive, with deep red tortoiseshell walls, sweeps of gold, statuesque lamps, antique mirrors and huge, glistening Swarovski chandeliers sprinkling the spectrum around somewhere that feels like an art deco nod to the restaurant’s illustrious heritage. Some diners might get snooty about having to leave the restaurant to visit the restrooms but others will just see it as an opportunity to wander through the lobby and cast their eye over even more of the hotel’s really rather remarkable splendour.
The Atmosphere
With a setting as luxurious as this, it’s nice to see that they’ve managed to inject enough informality into proceedings to make it somewhere that’s not too stuffy. This informality comes primarily from the staff members, who are welcoming, friendly and entertaining, despite the fact that those in the lobby do rather disconcertingly pop up from all angles – a simple trip to the toilet threatens free will. The atmosphere in the restaurant works really well though, balancing the need for finesse with the ability to relax, resulting in an animated and content dining room full of foodies, suits, hotel guests, ladies doing lunch and even lone diners leafing through copies of… less informative guides to London.
The Food
Created by chef patron Stuart Gillies and head chef Andy Cook, the Savoy Grill boasts an extensive menu full of classic French and traditional British dishes, so expect the likes of lobster bisque with brandy butter (£8.50), baked Hereford snails with parsley root puree, shallot sauce and brioche crumbs (£12.50), half a glazed native lobster thermidor (£19) and plenty of excellent cuts of meat from the grill.
A starter of smoked mackerel (£10.50) served with a horseradish and potato salad with bittercress and toast is excellent, if a little lopsided. The rich mackerel pate is plentiful but there’s not enough toast, and the accompanying salad is measly, despite being well balanced and benefiting from a nice kick from the horseradish. It’s still a very good dish though, and a nice little scene setter for the mains.
It would almost be remiss not to go for something from the grill, where prime cuts are beautifully flamed. The Herdwick mutton cutlets (£18) are fatty, but consequently very, very tasty, with a smoky exterior giving way to some very soft meat. The mutton works incredibly well with the smattering of lightly caramelised baby red onions, but not so well with the accompanying crisps, which are pointless and rendered redundant.
Desserts keep the traditional feel going, with a rum baba with citrus fruits and Jersey cream (£8.50) looking particularly nice, as do the vanilla crème brulee (£8) and the steamed cinnamon pudding with rum raisins and custard (£8).
The Drinks
As you would expect, there’s a very impressive wine list that’s long enough to leave some discombobulated and others simply salivating. It’s not difficult to find something particularly impressive without breaking the bank though, with a very decent valpolicella at £27 serving as one of the more affordable introductory options. If you do want to splash out though there is of course plenty of scope to do just that, with a £150 2007 American Chardonnay, an acclaimed ‘99 Chateau Lunch-Bages at £230 and a 2000 Dom Perignon Champagne at a mere £210.
The Last Word
With a pedigree that boasts of regular diners like Winston Churchill, Marilyn Monroe, Margaret Thatcher and an impossibly long list of other luminaries, the Savoy Grill has a lot to live up to. Thankfully it does. Just.
Savoy Grill has been reviewed by 10 users