6 Battersea Rise,
London,
SW11 1ED
0872 148 4504
The ViewLondon Review
Clapham Junction is particularly well-served with restaurants, especially along Northcote Road and Battersea Rise, yet Scoffers has always stood out.
With more longevity than many of its rivals, and a loyal fan-base drawn from SW11’s leisured classes, it’s managed to cultivate a relaxed, local atmosphere, with friendly, personal service, a reliable, reasonably priced evening menu and great breakfasts, brunches and lunches – amongst which their eggs Benedict have become the stuff of local legend.
Even more memorable is the mature fig tree which grows through the centre of the glass-ceilinged back room; as you sit beneath the boughs, hung with fairy lights, you could almost be anywhere in the Mediterranean – or in a chi-chi Brooklyn eaterie, at that.
A modern British menu sees something for everyone, with excellent fresh vegetables and often a twist on traditional favourites. The only criticism is the quality of the meat, which is often where the difference between a reasonably-priced meal such as this and a real wallet-buster shows; on a recent visit the wild boar was lacking in richness to the point of being a pork chop, and the game pie was not quite gamey (or tender) enough.
However, do not let this minor caveat put you off. Scoffers outstrips its near rivals by a long chalk, not least in terms of atmosphere and friendliness. It’s one of those places where the enjoyment and dedication of the owners shines through, making you feel that warm glow that comes from finding a local restaurant for local people.
As much SW11 as Arding & Hobbs and the Boat Race, one can only hope that Scoffers can withstand the relentless pressure from the big chains and hang on to that prime spot on Battersea Rise.
Scoffers has been reviewed by 3 users