This restaurant delivers Modern British dining to the Barbican theatre but the overall execution is a little inconsistent.

The Venue
Searcy’s is located on the second floor of the Barbican Theatre, so on your way to the restaurant you’ll stroll past adverts for pantos and plays. It’s a bit kitschy and the theatre could do with some refurbishment. Once inside the restaurant is a cross between 1920s Manhattan and a chic, solid establishment but there’s not really anything modern to it. There’s an L-shaped layout with an interesting colour scheme that features yellow walls and plush, velvet-like bound chairs provide a relaxed environment. The only saving grace is the beautiful views of the City which will win over any date.

The Atmosphere
This is certainly a place to spot the theatre-goer and even the odd thespian or two swilling on some expensive wine or a cheeky port. The age range is more on the higher side of 40 as there aren’t particularly many youngsters or hip 20- or 30-somethings.

The Food
The quality of the ingredients is evident in some dishes but not in others. For starters the celeriac soup is fresh and full of warming ingredients such as thyme and warm chestnuts. While the red onion tart tatin is well done, the onions could do with a little more caramelising as they aren’t completely soft. The baby leaf spinach salad was little more than decoration but the pastry was well cooked and flaky.

Whilst you gaze out of the window chew over a cote du boeuf, a moist fillet of Scottish beef that’s well presented on the bone and comes with a Bearnaise sauce that’s creamy and not too pungent and some peppery rocket leaves that are left a little sorry for themselves on the plate with no one to play with. Meanwhile, the turkey assiette is dry as a bone with minimal gravy to moisten it while the rosemary potatoes are a little heavy and lacking flavour, crispness or fluffiness. The accompanying cranberry sauce is sweet and on the tart side which is the plus side of a disappointing dish. One positive note is the side of vegetables with the buttery parsnips and carrots well cooked and al dente.

Desserts take a further tumble unfortunately. The selection of British cheeses won’t win any rosettes as a solid choice of creamy numbers are served up with some homemade oat cookies that are crumbly and slightly bland in taste. The chocolate log is tasteless and too firm; it seems like no effort had gone into what could be a real treat. It comes with a cinnamon creme fraiche and a mulled wine ice cream that is completely overpowering and has only a hint of vinegar-y red wine.

The Drink
The wine list is pretty respectable with reds and whites divided up into fruity, fragrant and full flavoured numbers. The Verdelho, Tempus Two from Australia is fruity and full of body while the Montepulciano Rosato, Colline Teatine from Italy is a dry and clean rose with hints of strawberry. For a light aperitif the Kir Royals have just the right amount of champagne to creme de cassis and there are some interesting Sherries to sample featuring La Gitana, Manzanilla and Hidalgo Fino Sherry all priced at £6.00.

The Last Word
If you are in The Barbican taking in a play then do visit Searcys for some good starters and mains. Unfortunately the desserts are very disappointing and leave something to be desired.

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