17 Notting Hill Gate,
Notting Hill,
London,
W11 3JQ
(020) 7985 0006
The ViewLondon Review
Hand over your cares with your coat, sink into the comfortable plush chairs, order the fabulous signature cocktail and put yourself in the hands of your attentive waiter at Seventeen, a swanky Chinese restaurant in Notting Hill.
The Venue
Seventeen is wedged between an estate agent and a Tex Mex place on Notting Hill Gate, which is the bit they didn’t show in that Hugh Grant/Julia Roberts blockbuster. Less salubrious than its upmarket neighbour, the Gate part is nonetheless buzzing on a Wednesday night and it’s rather a relief to step into the quiet, pampering opulence of Seventeen.
The Atmosphere
The street-level section is part waiting area/bar, part overflow; the real business happens downstairs. And this, really, is the only the only grumble. It’s way too dark. This may be just in some sections of the restaurant (which isn’t huge), but the effects of blue lighting on the bar and around the far wall, combined with red and yellow lamps, means you can see no further than the far end of a chopstick. The overall effect is stunning, but limiting – particularly in terms of perusing the menu.
The Food
So the simple answer is put yourself in the hands of your waiter. Seventeen has an extensive — even by Chinese standards — and slightly baffling menu. While it offers two set meals for dinner, the Chef Special at £38 per head (minimum two people) and the Treasure Meal (£48, four people), the a la carte menu is somewhat boggling. There are also dim sum and spicy Szechuan menus – the former offers a dim sum platter, which looks good value, while the latter is possibly for aficionados only. Husband and wife pork lung slices, anyone?
The danger in any restaurant with which you are not familiar is to order items on the menu that you have had before. Safe maybe, but you will be missing an amazing experience. Instead, take a deep breath, and ask your waiter for recommendations. Thus you may experience the Seventeen skewer platter (£9.80) – little skewers of squid, lamb, prawn and, unusually, asparagus wrapped in bacon. These are spicy, but not to a burn-your-tastebuds-off degree. All items on the menu marked with star are on the fiery side, but you can specify mild, medium, hot or very hot.
One thing you really must try is the enchantingly named Nightly Lotus (£12.80). This, for two people, is a mix of minced seafood served on a lettuce leaf with a sweet chilli sauce. After the spicy skewers, it is deliciously refreshing – delicate, sweet and crunchy – and cleans the palate nicely for the main course.
For two people, three mains plus rice or noodles is probably about right, with the rice coming in individual white lidded bowls. Lamb chops with black pepper (£18.80) are highly recommended, the pepper making a zingy crust that doesn't overpower the sweet flavour of the tender lamb. Tiger prawns (£15.80) come with scallops in a silky sauce that tastes of the sea. The prawns are huge, and so expertly prepared that the shells come away from the flesh like a lady slipping off a stocking.
But the star of the show is undoubtedly a fish chilli dish, which arrives in a huge earthenware bowl that looks like you could swim laps in it. Abundant slices of white stonefish are accompanied by bean sprouts and what appear to be, literally, hundreds of red and green chilli. The fish has a sweet flavour and barely needs chewing, the sprouts are nicely al dente and the chillies will blow your head clean off. Hence it is prudent to remove at least a few before taking a mouthful. Put out the flames with a beautifully presented plate of fresh fruit, including melon, pineapple and creamy speckled dragon fruit.
The Drink
Back to that signature cocktail. The 17 is a glorious mix of passion fruit syrup, white rum, lychee liqueur, lychee juice and coconut, pale pink in colour and slightly sweet, without masking the rum or its alcoholic kick. Seventeen has an extensive cocktail list, none of which cost more than £8.
The wine list, too, is wide-ranging. With wines from Austria, Australia, Chile, Germany, Argentina, France, Italy, Spain, New Zealand and South Africa, you should find something to suit your palate and your wallet. The house white is a South African Broken Rock chenin blanc (£17), full of fruit and fresh flavours which work well with the spicier dishes. The house red is a Chilean merlot at £18. There are only two white – the chenin and a pinot grigio – and three reds offered by the glass, which seems a little stingy. House Champagne, a Cuvee des Ambassadeurs, is £9 a glass or £45 a bottle, the same price for the bottle as a Veuve Clicquot. Your choice!
The Last Word
Seventeen prides itself on offering popular Chinese selections, as well as a authentic Szechuan dishes. There is something for everyone – but be a little bit brave and you will experience a taste sensation.
Seventeen has been reviewed by 3 users