This simply appointed and unassuming South Indian restaurant offers sublime vegetarian and vegan food at eminently reasonable prices.

The Venue
Located on the lacklustre London Road in Norbury, just opposite the railway station, blink and you might miss the black and white facade of Shahee Bhelpoori. Inside, the monochrome exterior gives way to naff pink carpet and magnolia walls sporadically studded with indifferent artwork. It’s not going to win any interior design awards, but it’s the quality of the cooking and the low prices rather than the colour of the walls that make this curry house a great dining destination.

The Atmosphere
This is a laid back and friendly place to eat. Waiting staff greet customers with courtesy and the old adage of nothing being too much trouble stands firm. The restaurant does a decent trade on weekdays and a cracking one at weekends when its faithful fanbase returns in droves. On Sundays, when there’s an all you can eat buffet running from 12.30pm to 10pm and costing a miraculous £4.95 (half-price for kids under seven), there’s a steady stream of customers but no sense of being rushed.

The Food
Shahee Bhelpoori specialises in cuisine from the Kerala region of South Indian. The food from this area is traditionally mildly spiced and richly flavoured, with cardamom, cinnamon, ginger, cumin, coriander and turmeric making frequent appearances. Starters are divided into hot and cold, with nearly all around the £2.10 mark. Old favourites samosa and onion bhajee make an appearance on the hot menu, as does the more unusual aloo tikka (potato cakes infused with garam masala and cumin), vegetable cutlet and chatpati chana (gently spiced, lemony chickpeas wrapped in a chapati). Cold starters include dhai vada, succulent lentil doughnuts smothered in fragrant yoghurt and served with sweet and sour tamarind sauce, and aloo papri chat, a delectable combination of chickpea, potato and flour crisps enriched with spices and served with yoghurt.

Dosas, crepes stuffed with a variety of fillings, are a Southern Indian speciality and, with six different types on the menu, Shahee Bhelpoori’s signature dish. The masala dosa is dense yet lacy, packed with softly spiced potatoes and served with rich lentil sauce and tangy coconut chutney. Thalis (various dishes making up a complete meal served on a tray) and a compact but eclectic range of vegetable curries, including biryani and chilli paneer, constitute the rest of the mains. Prices start at around £4, with only two of the main dishes straying above £7. Accompaniments are excellent. Fluffy Kashmir rice studded with almonds and raisins is aromatically good, and there’s a selection of traditional breads for the serious business of mopping up. The puddings are mercifully light and include rasamalai, a creamy, cardamom-infused milk pudding, as well as ice cream and kulfi.

The Drink
The drinks list is extensive but nothing to really hang the flags out about. It covers all the basics: wines, beers, spirits and soft drinks. Bottles of wine start at £6.90 whilst glasses are under a mere £2.

The Last Word
If, for some unfathomable reason, you need an excuse to have a meal without meat, Shahee Bhelpoori is it. The decor may be a wee bit shabby but the food is anything but.

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