Dalston, despite what people say about being up and coming, remains an insalubrious part of town. This part of Kingsland Road tends to be dirty, traffic ridden, and, as estate agents are fond of saying, vibrant. This can be taken in stride by all but the most lily livered types and indeed should be as Shanghai is a food destination in its own right.

The Venue
Shanghai is situated in the former premises of a pie and mash shop. The original old tiles, booths and long counter can be found in the first room and, if you look down, there is an eel on the threshold as you walk in. Keep going and there is a more traditional restaurant beyond that won’t win any prizes for decor, but it shouldn’t put you off your food.

The Atmosphere
The ambience very much depends on where you sit; if you’re in the first room, with its booths and long counter, things are a little quiet with a definite canteen vibe. The warmer coloured decor of the restaurant proper, along with round tables and lower lighting, mean there is increased sense of occasion. The service is prompt and efficient, although while most of the staff are very friendly, there are a few who buck the trend. You can hire private rooms for karaoke if you have at least 15 people – this comes with a set menu that costs £16.80 per person.

The Food
You can tell a Chinese restaurant by the quality of its dim sum and Shanghai won’t disappoint. The wafer wrap prawns – prawns and peas coated in a barely-there batter, held in place with a ribbon of seaweed and deep fried – are hot, juicy, crispy, succulent, a little sweet, quite salty and delectable. Very pretty the three of them look too. Two lots of cheung fun – like soft, wet, rice noodle pillow cases – enclosing prawn with chive and scallops with water chestnut are slimy, sensuous and subtle of flavour. They are enlivened by an accompaniment of sweet chilli sauce.

Shanghai ravioli with chilli is a traditional dumpling filled with minced prawns, bamboo shoots and Chinese mushrooms served with chilli oil. This is flavoursome and good. Salt and pepper asparagus is coated in the same feather light batter and served with fried garlic, chilli and spring onion. It is beautifully presented, salty, crunchy, hot, spicy and attention seeking. Crispy seaweed is adequately crunchy, salty, sugared and enjoyably unhealthy. The braised seasonal vegetables with mixed mushrooms are basically pak choi with lots of mushrooms. It is on the slimy side but fine if mixed with rice. Steamed scallops in spinach juice pastry dumplings are subtle but look beguiling in their little bamboo pot. They too are brightened by some chilli sauce, although purists might disagree.

Beyond dim sum, the menu is extensive with more than 17 seafood dishes, not including lobster, then duck, lamb, pork, chicken, vegetarian, tofu and soups. The menu is reasonably priced and there is a happy hour every afternoon between 3pm and 4.45pm when the dim sum is about 20 percent off the regular price; come then and it is impossible to run up a large bill.

The Drink
A few types of beer and a decent selection of wines are available, alongside six types of tea, served in small china cups from an elegant and generously proportioned tea pot.

The Last Word
Expect to see a lot of Chinese people at this excellent value restaurant in its quirky setting and if that isn’t draw enough, there’s always the karaoke.

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