Southbank Centre,
Belvedere Road,
South Bank,
London,
SE1 8XX
(020) 7654 7800
The ViewLondon Review
Skylon at the Royal Festival Hall has developed a reputation for top notch cuisine and glamorous views.
The Venue
Located in the Royal Festival Hall on the South Bank, Skylon is accessible by two entrances – up a discreet staircase from the South Bank or through the Royal Festival Hall itself. The massive building’s imposing architecture doesn’t do itself any favours, but once inside the restaurant the retro decor is welcoming and subtle. The stars of the show are the huge circular lamps hanging from the ceiling and, of course, the view. Floor to ceiling windows line one wall, so that anyone looking in from across the Thames would see a cross-section of the restaurant. The river looks gorgeous at night – you can see it sparkling and shimmering as boats of all sorts cut through the water silently. In the daytime you can expect the view to be great as well, with the added bonus of being able to watch people sightseeing along the Thames. It's best to request a table by the window, as a seat further back might require a bit of standing up and twisting around to see anything worthwhile.
The Atmosphere
Despite being one long room, there are three distinct areas to Skylon, with the grill on the left, the bar in the middle and restaurant on the right. The bar buzzes with crowds standing by the window, perched on the high seats that frame the bar or grouped around small tables for two. Despite there not being a physical divider between the two, the restaurant seems much quieter and more subdued. Service is quick and friendly, and despite a lengthy waiting list you’re not pressured to move along before you’re ready. There’s little to no hovering – but perhaps that’s due to nearly every possible table being filled. The glamorous atmosphere is slightly dampened, however, if you have to use the loos, as you have to leave the restaurant and use the main ones in the Royal Festival Hall.
The Food
The a la carte menu is laid out simply, with about eight starters and mains, and wastes no breath describing the unnecessary. Two courses cost £37.50, three courses £42.50, and the mere £5 difference ensures that most people will make the splurge and go for three. A few more options for sides would be appreciated, as some of the dishes are very rich and could use some greens to lighten things up.
An amuse bouche of goat’s cheese on thinly sliced bread is a bit off-putting, as the bread has a strange, rubbery taste. Much better is the starter of foie gras, which is rich and unctuous, with a thick texture. Throughout the foie gras is a smattering of pistachios, which add some sweetness to the dish, and the slices of brioche are light and soft, if a bit too crumbly. Venison carpaccio is served as the tiniest of slivers, deep pink with a subtle flavour. The accompanying pickled beets, although strong, are a good complement to the light slices of venison – any thicker and the gamey taste would be noticeable, making it an odd combination, but it works extremely well.
A main of veal belly is well cooked and hearty, sliced into thin rectangles connected by a layer of fatty skin. The thick, deep sauce that the trompettes and red onion slices adds another layer of flavour. Duck comes two ways, a perfectly cooked but slightly fatty breast, and a crispy leg, where the meat is slightly drier, with more depth. The creamy foie gras risotto, which comes on the side in a little copper pot, is a nice touch.
The pre-dessert is really lovely, a tall shot glass with a thick, sugary coconut sorbet and a layer of bright orange coulis. Other desserts include the pale, soft poached apricot, set on the plate in little towers of ice cream and pistachio sponge, and the crepes, which are cooked in front of you on a little travelling cart. Perhaps not the best thing to order if you don’t want everyone staring at you, the crepes are cooked and set alight (courtesy of a slug of Grand Marnier) before being presented to you. Although the alcohol has all probably burned off, there’s still a slight boozy hint to the dish, and the crepes are light and coated in a dark chocolate and raspberry sauce.
The Drink
The lengthy cocktail menu, available in the bar, averages out at about £10 a drink, but they’re well made and worth the price. A Champagne Berry Bellini, made with fresh blackberries and blackberry liqueur, needs a good stir to mix the sweetness of the berries through with the fresh taste of the Champagne, but the flavours are all balanced perfectly. The Skylon Martini, made with vodka and apple liqueur, is a good blend of sharp and sweet. A pretty, pale green colour, it comes with two fat, round grapes on a little cocktail stick.
A short bar menu is also available, ranging from about £4 to £13 for dishes like seared tuna lollipop with wasabi mayo, duck spring rolls and eucalyptus honey glazed baby chorizo, making it easy to sample some of Skylon’s food without the price tag of the set restaurant menu. In terms of wine, the helpful sommelier puts a lot of thought into which wines will work with your food, although if you’d rather go it alone there’s a large selection of choices by the glass from about £5 and bottles from under £20, with a host of different countries represented. Special occasions are catered for as well, with bottles of Champagne and sparkling from about £50.
The Last Word
The price tag might raise an eyebrow or two, but request a table next to the window and the combination of the food and the views will be more than worth it.
Skylon Restaurant has been reviewed by 2 users