Smiths of Smithfields is famous throughout the capital for the meat it serves and for the fact that its chef, John Torode, is one of the presenters of MasterChef. Fortunately it lives up to the hype.

The Venue
Smiths of Smithfields sits in an empty street opposite the covert outer wall of the lively after hours Smithfields meat market. Set in a semi-converted industrial building, rusty metal pipes trip along flaky exposed brickwork and grilles hang on to grating concrete, whilst in the loo silver-foiled aircon pipes dangle next to threatening light bulb-holding chains. A doorway is dressed with plastic meat curtains and flames spurt out of steel kitchen surfaces. Seeing a few hanging carcases would not be a shocker.

The Atmosphere
Rescued by soft lighting and chilled-out tunes, surprisingly the overall effect brings about a deep feeling of contentment. The blood-red paint on the wall returns you to the womb and the vast rough space becomes a cosy place. The second floor holds the relaxed main dining room where a froth of conversation simmers away. For sale photos of rock legends looking unexpectedly healthy don the walls. The friendly owner and waiters wander about.

The Food
The option of paying £1 for bread for each person seems odd until you taste the immiscible balsamic vinegar and olive oil coated, lightly toasted rustic bread and realise you’d be quite happy to just sit and dip and drink all evening. The no-nonsense menu offers distinct dishes for a range of appetites. Expected for the location, a spot-on well-done beef burger runs clear with shiny juice saturating the burger bun. Laced with stocky tomato chutney and layered with mellow mature cheddar and not-too-salty bacon, this is the burger of champion farmers. At the other end of the spectrum, deep green curly kale layered with diced fried potatoes, smoky bacon, cod’s brother pollack and a wobbly poached egg bestow an ambrosial blend of delicate balanced flavours for a less carnivorous palate.

Originally concocted deserts such as vanilla pannacotta with blood oranges or chocolate and mascarpone torte with poached plum biro a return visit into the diary. The smooth white chocolate and ginger cheesecake is not sickly sweet and cunningly contains a touch of grated zingy ginger in the cheese as well as a crumbly ginger biscuit base.

The Drink
A top notch bottle of creamy silver-tongued plum and vanilla Navajas Tinto Rioja for £16.50 is a happy surprise.

The Last Word
Mastercheffed.

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