When you’ve had enough of cutting edge cuisine at uber-trendy venues served by staff who appear to be supermodels’ better looking siblings, a trip to this St John’s Wood establishment might prove the perfect antidote. Don’t expect culinary fireworks or a cool vibe at Sofra; instead, pleasant Middle Eastern and Mediterranean food competently served in a relaxed atmosphere at fair prices is the order of the day.

The Venue
Sofra is a small Turkish chain with branches in Covent Garden, Mayfair and St Christopher’s Place, plus Ozer restaurant near Regent Street. The St John’s Wood branch is situated in a pleasant, leafy, if rather non-descript run of shops including a deli, bank, post office and convenience store. Perhaps the kindest word for the restaurant’s decor is inoffensive – walls and napery are white, floors are wood, with splashes of colour provided by the red or grey leather chairs. It’s actually quite a small dining room with only about 60 covers, although it feels much larger thanks to two cleverly mirrored walls. There’s a pleasant courtyard covered by huge sun umbrellas for an additional 40 or so customers. Heaters are on hand should the evening air turn chill.

The Atmosphere
On a quiet weeknight, you have to provide your own, though it’s easy to imagine the place can be riotous and fun when packed with big groups. Indeed, going mob-handed may well be the best plan, given how strongly Turkish cuisine lends itself to sharing. Staff are pleasant, pauses between courses are well-timed and orchestral musak plays at an agreeably low level.

The Food
Thankfully, warm, seeded bread, hummus and olives are provided whilst diners peruse the gargantuan menu of 29 starters, a dozen chargrills, 13 fish dishes, nine specials and six veggie options. And that doesn’t include set meal deals, salads, sides and a kids’ section. Among starter favourites like aubergine caviar, taramosalata, borek (filo parcels) and fried Hellim (Halloumi) cheese, falafel (broad bean and chickpea fritters, £3.95) arrive looking slick on their rectangular serving plate. The little balls are crunchy, light and fresh-tasting. They would be a bit hard-going without their accompanying humous, a bigger dollop of which would not go amiss. Equally good looking is monkfish on skewer (£5.95). In fact, the fish chunks have been removed from their skewer. They are moist within and agreeably charred without, and go surprisingly well with their unadvertised sweet chilli dipping sauce.

Of the mains, sea bass fillets (£10.95 for one, £16.95 for two) are perfectly cooked. The same cannot be said of the portion of mash on which they sit: it tastes okay but is grey and lumpy. The fish and mash come with silk route, this turns out to be broccoli, mixed peppers and mange tout, all competently cooked. A main course of battered squid rings with salad (£10.95) is a more-than-generous, crisp and tender portion. The leaves, red onion, tomatoes, cucumber and peppers have been lightly and agreeably dressed, and there’s a little tub of tartare sauce. Like everything else, it’s perfectly fine but doesn’t make the jaw drop with astonished delight.

Ten puds are a tad more international than the savouries, featuring classics like baklava, creme brulee and tiramisu. All cost about £4 except mixed berries and raspberry sorbet at £5.95 – why should that be so much more expensive? Tahini (sesame paste) might sound a rather odd flavour for ice cream and, indeed, it is, albeit not in an unpleasant way. A scoop of cinnamon delivers a hefty spice hit, whilst chocolate is the star ice, tasting full of quality, dark chocolate.

The Drink
The global wine list comprises four champagnes and sparklers, two roses, 13 whites, 15 reds and three desserts from £13.95 to £47.55, with a handful available by the 175ml glass. Turkey is hardly a leading winemaking country, yet there’s nothing wrong with Cankaya from Angora (£3.95 a glass, £13.95 a bottle), a dry, elegant, zingy, zesty white. Its red equivalent (Yakut, also from Angora, same price) is perhaps slightly less remarkable but a perfect acceptable, soft quaffer, nonetheless.

Still or sparkling water is £1.30 per glass or £2.75 for a large bottle. A large jug of London tap is provided without demur. There are plenty of spirits and liqueurs, vermouths, Pimm’s, lagers, soft drinks and even a couple of shooters. Teas, all at £1.70, range from English Breakfast or Earl Grey to raspberry or fresh mint leaves, and all the usual coffee suspects are present and correct (£1.65 - £2.25) including, of course, Turkish. From the liqueur coffee list (all £4.95), a generous glass of Baileys arrives hot and with a good strong booze kick.

The Last Word
Sofra is one of those places it’s hard not to damn with faint praise. The food is fine, the decor inoffensive, the service competent and pleasant. You could easily enjoy three courses and half a bottle of modest wine for £35 or even less which makes it the perfect fallback option if you live in the neighbourhood – just don’t expect to say wow very often.

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