Tucked away on an uncharacteristically secluded edge of Soho is a gem still inexplicably undiscovered by many Londoners. The Soho Pizzeria is what London eating is all about.

The Venue
On a quiet Soho street the warm fluorescent orange sign draws people in the know like a candle in the dark. Located on the corner of Beak Street, there is something almost neighbourhood-like about this pizzeria - no pretensions and effortlessly cool – without perhaps knowing why.

Inside this live music venue the old school jazz vibe literally adorns the walls with inspired artwork and photographs, a piano on a small sound stage in the corner of the restaurant and as many simple wooden tables and chairs crammed in as possible.

The Atmosphere
Booking is advisable particularly at weekends as the restaurant is full from early evening onwards despite the seemingly complete absence of tourists. In spite of the proximity of the tables and the volume of customers the vibrant buzz around the place ensures that you’re never faced with the uncomfortable feeling of being privy to stranger’s conversations and they privy to yours.

Service is above and beyond friendly, staff really seem to vibe off the general buzz and in turn their good feeling is infectious. Even the management walking round happily mingle with customers with more than a mere Is everything OK? Delivery is also very prompt even when staff are run off their feet.

There is also live music, usually jazz, in the evenings Monday through to Saturday with no cover charge to diners. A host of regular musicians alternate nights and manage to find the elusive magic point for music in a restaurant between forgettable elevator music and being the conspicuous focal point, where you feel rude if you don’t give your full undivided to every note. When it’s right, as it is here, it makes such a difference to the dining experience and elevates Soho Pizzeria above its competition.

The Food
A comparatively small pizza menu but don’t worry, the crowd pleasing favourites are all there as well as enough variety to try something a little different. There are also a few pasta and salad options although these feel like token gestures of choice rather than deserving to be on the menu in their own right.

Starters are all under £4 but fall into the familiar trap of being thought as of less importance and the dishes reflect this sentiment. The Antipasto Misto has no discernible difference in flavour in any of its vegetables. The marinated aubergines are far too oily and the red pepper strips taste of the sun-dried tomatoes they are sat next to having been drenched in the tomatoes’ oil - some small artichoke hearts and a scattering of dry black olives do little to raise the bar.

The Pizzas come in one size about nine - ten inches, are thin and crispy and the toppings go almost right to the very edge leaving no wasted plain dough crust. Although it may not be the most authentic pizzeria in town, it’s one of the most satisfying and with prices from as little as £5 to less than £8 it is hard to quibble.

The Siciliana at £7 is loaded with ham, black olives, garlic, mozzarella, tomato, anchovies and artichoke hearts. Although the anchovies are massive and commendably not from a jar, the overall flavour with the bittersweet artichokes and unsmoked ham is quite delicate and the saltiness of the anchovy is rather overpowering. For those with more basic tastes the Margherita borders on thievery at just £5. A simple oregano, mozzarella and tomato topped crispy base is an understated delight. The oregano is not used excessively and they don’t skimp on the mozzarella either. A selection of cold desserts are also on offer and are great value at less than £4.

The Drink
Look as hard as you like - you will not find a more cost effective wine list in this neck of the proverbial woods. Short, simple and all-Italian, prices range from £11.50 to as little as £14 to hit the top end of the list. Despite a surge of poor quality Valpolicella on offer in the capital, this bottle of Valpolicella Classico is lip-smacking stuff and an absolute bargain at £14. Deep cherry fruit flavours and subtle liquorice notes marry perfectly with pizza and vegetarian dishes.

The Last Word
Whether you’re looking for a cosy little venue to unwind in while listening to some free live jazz without that oppressive bar vibe or for a satisfying cost-effective meal before a night out, the Soho Pizzeria is your new favourite place - just don’t tell the tourists.

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