Rapid service, a raucous atmosphere and reasonably priced, authentic tasting food are the hallmarks of this perennially popular Thai restaurant.

The Venue
Part of the Thai Square chain, Soho Thai has more of a cafe feel than its upmarket siblings, which include Thai Square in The Strand and the flagship restaurant in Trafalgar Square. Tucked away between Soho’s Wardour and Dean Streets on the pedestrianised St Anne’s Court, the decor is instantly forgettable, with mostly bare walls of an indeterminate hue. The compact space can accommodate 60, but only because diners are crammed in so tightly that raising a fork to the mouth risks poking someone’s eye out.

The Atmosphere
Its wooden tables, naked walls and tiled floor mean that when Soho Thai is busy, as it is almost every lunchtime and evening, the din is deafening. Fine for a fun-filled post-work gathering, not so good for those hoping for an intimate tete-a-tete. Don’t expect to linger over coffee or be given a dessert menu (it’s rumoured to exist but few ever see it); diners are presented with their bill quick smart. The black-clad staff are uber-efficient and smile as if their lives depend on it. A service charge of 12.5 percent is automatically added to the bill for tables of three or more.

The Food
The menu is uncomplicated, comprehensive and credible: the Thai Square chain proudly boasts that ingredients arrive daily from Thailand. A mixed vegetarian starter for two (priced at £10) consists of vegetable tempura, crispy beancurd, spring rolls and tod mun kow pod (spicy little corn cakes infused with chopped lime leaves) served with a sweet chilli sauce. Such dishes can be an oily extravaganza but this is light and succulent, if a little unexciting. Other starters, which are all priced between £4 and £6, include Cee Krong Moo (marinated spare ribs in a sweet and sticky sauce) and Gai Hor Bai Teoy (strips of spicy chicken wrapped in spinach leaves).

Mains (priced between £6 - £9) consist of a reliable range of curry, noodle and pan-fried dishes with some chef’s specials and salads thrown into the mix. Highlights include Pla Rad Prik, the signature Thai crispy fried fish dish, in this case rainbow trout. It’s a fish that’s prone to blandness, but the array of pungent sweet and sour flavours that define Thai cuisine turn it into something you could be eating beside the Mekong.

Vegetarian choices are strong with a whole section of the menu dedicated to non-meat eaters. Tao Hoo Pad Med Mamuang – pan-fried beancurd with cashew nuts and red and green capsicums – is sticky and substantial, the juicy beancurd cubes squeaking comfortingly against the teeth. Faint-hearted foodies might find the generous wedges of chilli a little full-on. Mention this when ordering and the chef will hold back on the hot stuff. Side dishes are unadventurous but perfectly adequate as a refreshing foil to the spicy mains. Rice comes steamed, sticky, egg-fried or with coconut, noodles are plain and vegetables simply presented.

The Drink
The wine list is unremarkable, with seven whites, seven reds and two roses from £13.50 per bottle, but Soho Thai isn’t the sort of place people flock to for fine wine. There’s a rather more interesting list of spirits but soft drinks are fairly limited too.

The Last Word
If you want fresh and authentic Thai food at gentle prices, and you don’t mind a bone-janglingly loud atmosphere, you won’t go far wrong with Soho Thai. But those planning an occasion meal will be better off elsewhere.

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