20 Inverness Street,
Camden Town,
London,
NW1 7HJ

(020) 7482 4611

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Poor untrendy Rocket; I’m fed up with it being slagged off by the press. Something’s got to be done…

Why this sudden rush to the defend the dandelion-look-a-like? Well, I had a lovely time with a good friend at Camden’s homely Bar Solo recently where the hard-done-by salad vegetable was key to a successful starter. I won the fight for the last bit.

Bar Solo was, not so long ago, refurbished and enlarged; a good idea judging by the almost full restaurant and bar. Those surrounding myself and Him Opposite (HO) that Saturday night looked so much at home that we were soon lulled into a welcome state of relaxation. Even the two waiting staff were part of the mood.

Lemon and salmon pink walls framing sturdy square wooden chairs and tables, candles, sandstone artefacts and flowers create a Mediterranean cosiness in the relatively small restaurant, and a compact mezzanine provides a prime spot for sofa lovers. But we’re here to eat, so back to that starter.

Perhaps because I spend too much time in the West End, I wasn’t expecting to see the cold spiced fillet of beef on a warm bean salad (£5) so thoughtfully presented on its square white plate. Posh, I thought, impressed. Biting into slices of tender, perfectly spiced fillet, these first impressions lasted. The beef’s warm sweetness and the peppery coldness of the rocket (the salad was more green than bean) were proof, if ever it were needed, that opposites attract.

Just as well presented was my spatchcock chicken and small wholesome potatoes (£9.50) roasted in their jackets. HO dived into his towering lamb shank only coming up for air when his plate was empty but for a fringe of garlic mash.

I was already full, and HO doesn’t even like cheesecake, but we were persuaded to share the white chocolate cheesecake (£3.95) from the specials board. Within minutes it had vanished beneath a blur of forks.