You never expect much from a chain restaurant – definitely not atmosphere or familiarity – but you’ll be pleasantly surprised by Spaghetti House.

The Venue
Most Londoners avoid Leicester Square like the plague – too many tourists and bustle, definitely not ideal for a relaxed dinner. And yet Spaghetti House, located on the not-too-congested side of Cranbourn Street and spread over a small ground floor and a large basement, is a great central spot to relax over a good meal. Wooden chairs and tables aren’t eye-catching but the warm red and cream walls and details such as an old wooden fence turned into a chandelier, old coat hangers and subdued watercolour landscapes make the space charming and welcoming.

The Atmosphere
The contemporary Italian songs played in the background add authenticity and the fact that some of the waiting staff are in their fifties – one of them has been working within the premises for more than 30 years - create this even stronger illusion of entering in a countryside trattoria. It’s no surprise that the service is very good and wonderfully familiar, as expected from the best Italian restaurants. The crowd is mixed with couples and groups in equal measure, more concentrated on munching away than of making of the night a fun-filled or romantic experience.

The Food
The menu is varied and decently priced, with pizza never over £10. Sharers, soups and antipasti (£2.30 - £8.60) all work well as starters. The king prawns with avocado is excellent, the avocado is perfectly ripe, the prawns large and the Marie Rose sauce more interesting than just mayonnaise and ketchup. The traditional bruschetta avoids the common mistake of toasting the bread too much - if anything, the bread it toasted too little and the tomatoes taste slightly of vinegar, although the dish remains good as a whole.

For mains, you can choose more than pasta (£7 - £11.75) and pizza (£7 - £9.75). An attractive selection of grilled, pan fried and roasted dishes (£11.25 - £14.50) includes a very tender oven-baked whole sea bream, falling off the bone and made delicious by the lemon it is cooked with. The roasted vegetable tagliatelle with lemon and thyme shows some prowess: the vegetables melt in your mouth, there is just enough oil to coat the lot and the pasta is fashionably al dente.

To finish things off, you could opt for fresh strawberries and pineapple with lemon zest ice cream, but the cassata is by far a better option, with its indulgent, generous layers of different flavour ice creams.

The Drink
The wine list is proudly 100% Italian, and yet diverse, with many grape varieties and every region represented. The house wine is available by carafe in true Italian style, while the bottles – about two dozen – can either be bought whole (£16.25 - £39) or by the glass (£4.30 - £9.70). For something less obvious, try a Campari soda (£3.50). This traditional, red aperitif is ideal with starters.

The Last Word
Atmospheric interior and quality food are just two of the aspects that make of Spaghetti House a warm, charming and quaint restaurant, surprisingly located right near Leicester Square.

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