The team behind Polpo and Polpetto bring adventurous Italian-American treats to an eagerly anticipated little venue that's bound to have diners queuing round the block.

The Venue
Surrounded by flashing Soho sex shops, Spuntino’s low-key exterior makes it easy to miss. The smoke-screened windows and brown masthead are non-descript and if it weren’t for the restaurant name inscribed in tiny, squiggly, chalk letters you’d be forgiven for thinking it was attached to the next-door massage parlour.

Once inside, Spuntino is less of a restaurant and more of a snack bar; small in size and opened out for a relaxed and shared experience. There is a central bar counter, a tall table in the corner, and a shelf along the side wall for the more casual diners. This combines the influences of European tapas bar and American diner, a hybrid form of social eating that reflects the cross-culture menu. Rusted tin ceilings and vintage fixtures and fittings make the dining area slightly more urbane.

The Atmosphere
There’s a real buzz about Spuntino. Customers are welcomed with complimentary popcorn and asked to sit where they feel most comfortable, be that tucked away in the corner or propped up against the bar for a friendly chat with staff. American blues and soul play in the background, adding to this modern take on Italo-American diner culture. The snack bar is low-lit and a simple brown colour scheme keeps it minimal and atmospherically dingy. You half expect the room to be full of smoke to complete the '60s New York feel.

The Food
On the brown paper menu are dishes that are ideal for sharing with friends, complemented by plenty of larger individual plates. Classic Italo-American cuisine comes in the form of mac and cheese (£8), but most of the menu seems quite original. The eggplant chips with fennel yoghurt (£4) are divine, the aubergine’s juices bursting out from beneath a layer of crisp and light, seeded batter. The fennel yoghurt is an inspired accompaniment that is tangy and deliciously peculiar. Stuffed fried olives (£4) come in the same light batter and are filled with a salty paste of anchovies, parmesan and sage.

Further down the menu are a selection of sliders, including the Brick Lane salt beef, dill pickle and Colman’s slider (£4.50), where a small, soft bread bun is stacked tall with these tasty and tangy flavours, making it the ideal snack. The sliders are best served with the superb golden, crisp and salty shoestring fries (£3).

The Drink
Any alcohol aficionados will be at home in Spuntino. An extensive range of soft and hard drinks is available from the bar. ‘Hard’ drinks will sound like a challenge for many, and include a shot of Dewer’s Scotch whiskey (£2) or Patron Anejo tequila and orange slice (£6). There are also five select Bourbons on the drinks menu, with more on offer behind the bar. A half pint of pale ale is priced at £2.50, and a list of fashionable and obscure spirits sit on the well-stocked bar.

For the more faint-hearted, the soft drinks are just as enticing. Dandelion and burdock costs £3.50, while a wide choice of sodas and juices are available, each priced at £2.50 a glass. Wines are also on offer, with prices ranging from £19.50 all the way up to £70 per bottle.

The Last Word
Spuntino is cool and casual. It's slightly rough around the edges, enabling it to take the pretension out of dining and allowing visitors to relax and share an evening with friends, staff and strangers alike. The reasonable prices match this attitude and its quirky menu choices are bold, delicious and sure to cause a stir in Soho.

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