26 St John Street,
London,
EC1M 4AY
(020) 7553 9842
The ViewLondon Review
Fans of nose-to-tail eating should make sure that they check out St John, which adopts a no-nonsense approach to its ingredients.The VenueSt John is positively dripping with character. What was once a neglected old bacon smoke house is now a thriving institution. From ceiling to floor or rather, nose-to-tail, harsh white brush strokes brighten the room whilst bold black lighting introduces a certain precision. Customary wooden seating and paper draped on tables covered in white linen make for a relaxed eating experience. The room's black and white theme is symbolic of the food's bi-polar nature.
The AtmosphereYou get the feeling that anything goes at St John – noise, dribbling, talking with your mouth full. Even jugs of iced tap-water aren't frowned upon. Regulars here are diverse and eclectic, from veggie-growing families to gossiping groups of old friends. It’s a place where you can let your inhibitions slide.
The FoodThe ideology of St John is to pay homage to every animal that hits the kitchen. Whilst offal is often an obscure culinary delight, here it represents the epitome of some of the greatest dishes on the menu. The usual caper will include anything from rolled spleen to deep-fried tripe, together with conventional fare from the sea and vegetarian specials.
Although the menu is changed twice daily, the signature dish of roast bone marrow and parsley salad does not budge. It won't however have any problem leaving the kitchen, so be sure to make a reservation, along with your table. Starters average at £6.00, making the ox heart a worthy investment. Mains come in at around £15.00 and are hearty and wholesome. Desserts steam on with the British theme; the fig Eton mess is a subtle, comforting option.
The DrinkThe wine list is unsurprisingly large, given that most people who come to the restaurant have the same zest for drink as they do for food. Wines are mostly Frenched and reasonably priced; although there's an expensive bottle or two on the list, it's nothing out of the ordinary for a restaurant of this type.
The Last WordThere’s no mucking around with the food at St John. It’s innovative, straight down the line, British cooking at its best.
St John has been reviewed by 4 users