If you want to feel like you’ve been transported back in time, book a table at the remarkable St Pancras Grand.

The Venue
St Pancras station is a beautiful thing. Fact. It has been lovingly restored and its iconic arched Barlow roof is one of the architectural wonders of modern London. For those in need of the time, look no further than the comforting presence of one of the biggest clocks you’re ever likely to see, the station’s Dent clock, which is visible throughout.

On the Upper Concourse of the station, you will find the open plan Champagne Bar (which has been a big hit) and the more recent haven that is the enclosed St Pancras Grand restaurant. Sitting in the St Pancras Grand feels like you’ve done a spot of time-travelling and ended in a different era, circa 1930s. It has a distinctive Art Deco influence running throughout its furnishings. There are decadent embossed glass mirrors that run around three of its four sides, subtle but pretty light fixtures and fittings and the venue is divided by its leather booth seating, which also has bold embossed glass panels to provide extra privacy. The metallic gold that coats the ceiling is another stand out feature. Overall, the illusion is so convincing that you can imagine smoke billowing from the steam engines on the platforms below. Snap your fingers and bring yourself back into the present, however, and you will know that the train most people are waiting for is the Eurostar.

The Atmosphere
This is a great place for couples. In fact, it’s a fan-bloody-tastic for a romantic meal. Not only do you get plenty of space to relax in a corner booth, but all the right ingredients are here: oysters on ice, free-flowing Champagne and the potential prospect of a weekend getaway in Paris, once you leave. Couples aside, there are plenty of groups of friends and families in attendance. The majority of the patrons are getting on a bit, but it’s not exclusively the case.

A special mention should go to the staff; service is spot on. Friendly and courteous, without being overly subservient, the staff possess the knack of appearing at the right time and don’t hover annoyingly.

The Food
Food at train stations is notoriously poor. The people behind St Pancras Grand (Searcy’s) have invested a lot of time and energy into making sure the food here is of a very high standard, with the aim of making the restaurant a destination in itself and not just a top end establishment for transient travellers. Whether they’ve achieved that yet is debatable, but one thing is for sure: a meal here is well worth it.

The oysters on ice and a glass of bubbly are the perfect way to start your meal. Choose from Maldon Rocks, Carlingford Lough or Cumbrae (half a dozen for £9.50, nine for £14.50 or a dozen for £18.50). These come presented on a huge platter of ice and the Cumbrae taste fresh out of the sea without being too salty. A drop of Tabasco sauce give them a lovely bit of heat. Other dishes available, early doors, are potted seafood, shellfish, soups and salads. The soups are of the comforting variety, the cream of crab finished with brandy (£7.75) is sure to warm your cockles on a cold day. For a lighter bite, the watercress salad, orange, red pepper and walnuts (£4.95) is a solid combination of salad leaves and the slightly sour orange contrasts nicely against the sweet roasted peppers, with the walnuts adding an oaky flavour and crunchy texture.

Mains are split into fish, meat and veggie sub-sections. Undoubtedly one of the highlights amongst the fish offerings is the smoked haddock with crushed potatoes, poached egg and mustard butter. Every mouthful of this dish is a joy. The delicately smoked haddock breaks into little flakes that work beautifully with the floury potatoes. The mustard dressing perks up the action without being overpowering. The lovely poached egg, perched on top, helps make this an excellent version of a classic dish. Sides of green vegetables (mange toute and runner beans, £3.25) prove to be good foils. The ever-so-British menu really shows its colours on the meat mains. Slow roast belly of pork with marmalade and cloves (£15.50) and Billy’s Lancashire hotpot (courtesy of highly rated executive chef, Billy Reid) with pickled cabbage (£14.50) are just two examples. The peppered rump steak doesn’t come cheap at £18.50 and is served up as two hefty pieces. Minor quibbles about how one piece of the rump is cooked slightly more than the other aside, it’s still a decent steak. Although, perhaps, it would be a good move to see a smaller fillet or sirloin on the menu for those wanting a bit more quality of cut over quantity of meat.

Desserts (£6.50) are again mainly classic British renditions. The Eton Mess is a sticky bowl of fun; cream, strawberries and sauce are all thrown together and the inclusion of the chewy meringue provides the most enjoyable moments of a dish that roars kiddies’ party. The custard tart with butterscotch is a clear winner, though. The triangle of delicate custard, the caramel flavour of the butterscotch and the fruity Garribaldi strip make it a dessert you will drool over.

The Drink
With bubbly flowing outside at The Champagne Bar, it’s rude not to get in on the action in here. Glasses start from £9.50 a glass for the Pol Roger Brut Reserve. For £62, a bottle of the very respectable Perrier Jouet is up for grabs. This rises steeply into the flash-the-cash peak of £320 for a bottle of Dom Perignon 1990.

The wine list is thorough and comprehensive. It’s mainly made up from renowned European stalwarts like France, Italy and Spain. Always a comforting sight. With twenty bottles of red and white on offer, starting from a moderate £18, you are not short of options. The Muscadet 2007 white wine at £24 is an excellent recommendation, especially if you’re pairing it with oysters or seafood dishes. This classy number is very refreshing and bursts with lemon. If you’re after a red wine, the Dianastia Vivanko Rioja Crianza at £26.50 will be rich enough in quality to assure you of its good value.

The Last Word
The St Pancras Grand has style and substance in equal measure. Eating and drinking at a train station has never been so enjoyable.

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