Part of a small group of three Thai restaurants in Southwest London, Suksan, the Chelsea branch, offers up great Thai food and a charming atmosphere.

The Venue
Located at the top of Park Walk, right off Fulham Road, Suksan seems to hide away with its small, understated entrance – you could almost walk right past it. Once inside, the decor is similar to many Thai restaurants, with a tried and tested formula of dark and discreet colours, deep woods and small statues and Thai paraphernalia interspersed amongst the walls and tables. It’s not especially original, but it’s not distracting. The most eye-catching thing about the restaurant is a banner on the wall made up of squares of bright, colourful silks, stretching from the bottom of the wall up across the ceiling like a rainbow. They’ve made the most of the long, narrow space with tables by the large windows in front, bench seating across from the bar in the middle and, down a step or two, a larger dining area at the back.

The Atmosphere
The neighbourhood will tell you a thing or two about the clientele, with couples, small families and friends catching up over drinks and food, whilst locals munch on spicy prawn crackers whilst waiting for their takeaway. Service is quick and attentive without being too overbearing, and the traditional Thai welcome and goodbye is a nice touch.

The Food
The food is reasonably priced for the area, with starters coming in at about £5 to £7 and mains from about £10 to £14. Presentation is attractive but not over the top, and although portions aren’t small, they’re not incredibly large either, so it would be a good idea to share a few mains with a dish or two of rice (only about £2, but a small bowl). Spring rolls, a classic Thai starter, are the exact opposite of the tiny, fried rolls that you might be used to. These rolls are large, wrapped in a soft and floury pastry and cut into bite-sized pieces that almost resemble sushi. The combination of tofu, sausage, egg and crab works brilliantly, lending the starter a sweet, succulent flavour that’s enhanced by the tangy tamarind sauce drizzled over the top. A trio of dumpling choices are, again, probably unlike anything you’ve had at a Thai restaurant before. More like works of art than food, the dumplings come in soft pastel colours and resemble little petal-ringed flowers. They’re so pretty you almost won’t want to eat them, but once you start you won’t be able to resist gobbling the rest as fast as possible.

Mains are divided up into meat and poultry, seafood, curries, noodles and rice and vegetarian dishes. Spicy beef with peppercorns is about a medium level of heat, with a thick, savoury brown sauce stirred through the tender strips of beef. A whole sea bass wrapped in a banana leaf is covered in peanut sauce and, although plentiful, the sauce complements the delicate flavours of the fish rather than overpowering it. Pad Thai, another standby dish, is a nice surprise as the noodles are al dente and the combination of prawns, egg and peanut tastes incredibly fresh. It seems as if a lot of care has gone into preparing the dish, which is nice to see as it’s so common that the chefs could probably make it in their sleep. There’s a decently long list of desserts, but you won’t need much more than mango with sticky rice if you’re full. Sweet without being sickly, the mango and rice combination is a comforting end to the meal.

The Drink
A large pot of tea, served in a cute elephant-shaped teapot, is available for about £2. (The tea comes out the trunk, which is both amusing and slightly disturbing.) Varieties include jasmine, chrysanthemum and green tea, along with homemade lemongrass, mint, ginger and pandan leaf tea. Coffee is also available for about £2, along with dessert wine from about £4.50 a glass and £18. The house white wine is thick and sweet, but has a light, refreshing taste that complements the rich flavours of the food.

The Last Word
A mix of the traditional and the unexpected, Suksan is a good choice if you’re in the area. With well prepared, interesting Thai food and a warm welcome, you can’t go wrong.

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