39 Queenstown Road,
Battersea,
London,
SW8 3RE
(020) 7622 1372
The ViewLondon Review
Promising lean Indian cuisine made from ingredients that are low in fat and free of added colours, you may be able to convince yourself that eating a chicken korma is actually good for you... Then you taste all that cream...
The Venue
Sultans Kitchen is very simply laid out. The white pillars out front are about as far as embellishments go, with bold black signage declaring its presence to passers by. Inside, the decor borders on boring with a predominance of white and the odd flash of yellow highlighting the tables bedecked with neat flowers and gleaming glassware in front of high backed black leather seats. As with many Indian restaurants the tables are so close together you might brush elbows with your neighbours, which does take away from the romance created by the little candles on each table.
The Atmosphere
Due to the 'cosy' nature of the space, Sultans Kitchen does have a warm and friendly atmosphere, further perpetuated by the staff. They are very knowledgeable about the menu and happy to deal with requests for extra heat or added ingredients, depending on your tastes. It’s not necessarily the kind of place you come for a quiet tête-à-tête or romantic get together but it is good for groups of mates catching up over a curry.
The Food
Although Sultans Kitchen brags proudly about its healthy eating ethos, you still have to remember your curry basics. If you’re on a diet then the chicken korma is not a healthy option, filled as it is with almonds, coconut and (lots of) fresh cream. It is, however, utterly delicious with big tender chunks of chicken and a good balance of coconut and almonds to bring out the flavours of the meat rather than hide them. The cream adds a great depth to the dish without making it too sickly, and for £6.25 it’s a real bargain.
Better for you (although not by much) is the king prawn dansak (£10.95), a hotter dish with a delightful sweet and sour element. The big, juicy prawns are cooked in a thick, rich lentil sauce, which adds real bulk to the dish without overpowering it. Sides of basmati rice finish it off nicely and you don’t have to spend a fortune on them to make it a filling meal. It’s also refreshing to eat at an Indian restaurant that genuinely cares about its ingredients.
The Drink
Mango lassi. Why order anything else? At £1.95 it’s a cheaper option than a dessert and is thick, creamy and delightfully sweet. Otherwise there’s Kingfisher and Cobra to choose from, as well as one red or one white bottle of wine. Not the largest choice in London but then why do you need choices when the lassi is so good?
The Last Word
Although it might not actually do your waistline much good, Sultans Kitchens ethos of healthy, well sourced ingredients is admirable, and pretty tasty.
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