While Yo! Sushi and Wasabi threaten to dominate the sushi scene in London, Sushi Hiroba holds its own as one of the best independents around.

The Venue
A ten minute stroll from Holborn tube, Sushi Hiroba is a warm and welcoming sight. Lantern-style canvas lighting, exposed brick and a bamboo conveyor bring twelfth-century charm to the setting, while the black marble counter and ambient beats make it darkly modern. From the moment you step inside, you feel you’ve joined a secret order of Japanese dining – with just a handful of sister venues across the world, you’re not far wrong.

The Atmosphere
Mismatched plates, a buzzing atmosphere, real chopsticks - Hiroba is authentic and smart. City types perch at the conveyor for a quick bite, while groups of friends hunker down in a booth for the full restaurant experience. A little bit askance when asked for non-conveyor dishes, the staff are, generally smiling and reserved. Catch them on karaoke night (not as conflicting as it sounds) and you’ll see another side to their character.

The Food
Rolls include the Alaska with salmon, crab, avocado and cheese (a must-try for £4), the French Kiss of shrimp with a powerful wine and cherry sauce, and the sumptuous crab and eel Holborn - all for the same middle-range price. Bubbling with tiny red and yellow flying-fish roe that pop in the mouth, these artistic and experimental fusion dishes fully explore the concept of sushi. You might find a tad too much mayonnaise and teriyaki for your taste, but there are plenty of clean sashumi and salad alternatives to refresh the palate.

Hiroba have resisted the usual phonebook-style sushi menu, opting instead for small, select categories and helpful one-liners in English. Dishes cooked to order like the prawn tempura will set you back £10 for just six pieces, but it’s some of the lightest, crumbliest tempura you’re likely to find. To follow, the dorayaki pancake is sweet and springy, and the mochi ice cream will restore your faith in Japanese desserts. Eagle-eyed diners will spot a bottle of Treat sauce being used more than once in the open plan kitchen, but if this is their biggest secret, it’s not bad going.

The Drink
A simple wine list is available – six whites and five reds – and a handful of Japanese beers and sake. The house white is a lively Chateau de Luc, zesty and refreshing, and the perfect backdrop to the richer dishes. The apple and pineapple juices are nothing special, but for £2 a cup, the hot miso soup is all you really need.

The Last Word
Elegant, authentic, adventurous - there are other sushi restaurants in London with this much class, but not many.

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