Nestled elegantly betwixt the Thames and the rebuilt Shakespeare's Globe theatre, Swan at the Globe Brasserie brings good quality British dishes to theatre fans, thespians and anyone else looking for some fine fare on the waterfront.

The Venue
Sitting alongside Shakespeare's Globe theatre, Swan at the Globe Brasserie of course enjoys an illustrious association with The Bard himself, but instead of using this daunting connection to produce somewhere that takes advantage of an inevitable tourist attraction, Swan at the Globe Brasserie retains a sophistication that sees it succeed as a stand alone restaurant. Stunning views across the glistening Thames to the splendour of Tower Bridge are reason enough in themselves to go but if you’re not lucky enough to enjoy the window seating that stretches the length of the restaurant, all’s not lost.

The decor is modern and sleek, yet with a stylish nod to the tradition of the accompanying theatre. The predominance of wood, beaten leather, Tudor windows and flickering candles hint at the kind of spit and sawdust Renaissance establishment in which Shakespeare may have written his portfolio, whilst plastic bucket seating, a smattering of matt silver and a modern cityscape ensure it’s balanced nicely with the present.

The Atmosphere
Window dining could hardly be more romantic so expect to see the odd couple gazing lovingly into each others eyes, oblivious to what is often a vibrant and bustling restaurant. And that’s where there’s a pleasingly harmonious dichotomy to the restaurant; the window seating practically insists upon an intimate atmosphere whilst the long bench table and the comfy leather seating encourage something a little more animated and communal. This versatility comes in handy, thanks to what can be a diverse range of visitors.

Obviously, given its location, the Swan plays host to a plethora of those attending the Globe itself. Consequently you can expect to see some enjoying pre or post theatre dining, some who have ambled in after a sightseeing trip and some who have decided that the Swan will be their destination restaurant of choice for the evening. It creates a nice mix and adds to what is essentially a relaxed atmosphere, augmented by impressive service that’s almost nonchalantly impeccable from the wine list right through to desserts.

The Food
The food is good, and admirably in keeping with somewhere associated with something and someone so intrinsically British. Consequently the menu features a host of typically British options that are conceived, cooked and presented well. The pigeon salad starter is served with some deliciously sweet and fruity quince jelly, and balanced nicely by dry, crispy bacon which gives salty depth to the dish, even if the pigeon is ever so slightly overdone and a little tough. Served on a healthy bed of green leaves it’s big enough to represent good value, and a good choice, at £7.50. The ham hock terrine is also good, with the incredibly tasty smoked ham being seasoned perfectly, mixed with some simple greens and presented well. A home-made tartar sauce adds a pleasant bit of tartness to a dish that at £7.00 is a hit, a very palpable hit.

Mains are hearty, so those in their salad days might want to give the pound of flesh that constitutes the delicious Elwy Valley Lamb (£17.00) short shrift. Those made of sterner stuff should certainly go for it though as the lamb is so sublimely cooked it dances trippingly on the tongue. It’s drizzled with a fragrant thyme sauce that brings a classic touch to the lamb, but while the accompanying flageolet beans are tasty, they are also almost ubiquitous, proving unequivocally that you can indeed have too much of a good thing. The duck is similarly good, with lean, immaculately prepared meat with succulent red flesh served with savoy cabbage and a peppercorn sauce that is a nice alternative to the sweetness of its usual companions.

The Cambridge burnt cream dessert shows a remarkably Renaissance aversion to the old enemy, seeing as its quintessentially English moniker belies the fact that it’s essentially a creme brulee. But it is a creme brulee fit for the gods. The crunchy caramel top is perfectly smoky, giving way to a vanilla custard base that is soft, light and so enticingly moreish that the whole thing demands to be finished. Those looking for something less indulgent might enjoy an excellent cheese selection that offers mature cheddar, a creamy goat’s cheese and a tangy stilton served with some chunky, sweet homemade chutney.

The Drink
An extensive wine list features a host of both new world and old world options, enabling the restaurant to pick some real gems from across the globe. It’s a versatility that they’ve used well, with affordable options such as the soft and fruity Argentian Malbec at £19.00 leading all the way up to the extravagant Cru Margaux at a mere £675.00 for the bottle. One of the best options is an oaky Rioja that boasts hints of vanilla and caramel and is a steal at £22.00.

The Last Word
Stunning views, great food and an admirable resistance to relying on the tourist trade ensures this is a place worth heading to regardless of your cultural interests. And as Orsino didn’t say, if the Swan be the food of love, swim on.

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