Celebrity fans and gourmets alike have raved about Tamarind since its conception thirteen years ago, but for every supporter there’s one detractor. Few restaurants divide opinion so keenly - does it offer the authentic Asian cuisine it boasts of? Is it worth the money? Does it still earn its Michelin star?

The Venue
Tamarind is located on Queen Street, just off Curzon Street in Mayfair. It’s a short walk from the conveniently close 5-star hotels on Park Lane, as well as only being about five minutes walk from Green Park tube station. Descend the distinctly unimpressive staircase into the basement venue, and prepare to be wowed one way or another - whether you love or hate it. Gold hues dominate the scene, accompanied by large flower displays, oversized lampshades and white tablecloths. The overall look is gaudy but effective, and certainly conjures up images of Bollywood.

The Atmosphere
Gordon Ramsay once named Tamarind as his favourite restaurant, and they replaced superstar Head Chef Atul Kochhar with capable if flashy Alfred Prasad when he went to nearby Benares. The pedigree is reflected in the slightly older Mayfair crowd, consisting of residents at nearby hotels such as the Dorchester, the Ritz or the Metropolitan and suited businessmen. The vibe can be a little cold, a feeling that isn’t helped by the slightly too efficient waiting staff. They’re so keen to be discreet that they come across as almost humble and servile, and a bit of friendly banter would be welcomed when asking for explanation of the slightly complex menu.

The Food
The Michelin star earned in its early days was based on authenticity and inventiveness, and these are still the qualities Tamarind boasts of on its menu. As well as the a la carte menu, there are various tasting menus, vegetarian set menus, plus special menus for early evening, pre- and post-theatre and lunchtime.

The a la carte menu kicks off with a choice of relatively few starters. A great option is their long-established, popular scallops, sprinkled in peppers and peppercorns and priced at £12. They’re really lightly grilled and not overly-spiced by the peppers, and are justifiably one of their most respected dishes. Less successful are the £10 grilled lamb cutlets, spiced with garlic, chilli and lime – they’re slightly too spiced even for this quite robust meat, and will only suit a palate that really likes to turn up the heat!

The main courses are priced between £18 and £25, with vegetable and bread accompaniments coming in from a pricey £4 to a frankly ridiculous £8.50. The pan-fried sea bass sounds like a mild option, coming with spinach and a tomato sauce the menu describes as tangy, but don’t make that mistake – instead, the rich and spicy sauce totally overpowers the fish and you’ll feel bitterly disappointed that such an easy dish to get right can be so wrong in these surroundings. Much better executed is the chicken with fenugreek, ginger and green chillies. Just as hot, but with much sweeter flavours in the ginger to temper it. Team it up with the delicious yellow lentils with garlic, which are very delicately flavoured and make a filling and subtle accompaniment. Desserts are something of a non-event in so many Asian restaurants, but not at Tamarind. Great options priced at £7 or £8 each include a rich and creamy dark chocolate mousse and cardamom rice pudding.

Overall, the food at Tamarind is a little more impressive to read on the menu than it is to actually eat, but that doesn’t detract from the incredible skill and technique employed to create it. In terms of enjoyment though, there are great and unusual flavours but it’s not consistent across the menu and some of the dishes are totally not worth the high prices.

The Drink
Tamarind has recently introduced a few more mid-priced wines to its wine list. The robust house red is a spicy and warm Shiraz, priced at around £22, and is good enough to stand up to the heat of the food.

The Last Word
Tamarind has tough competition, particularly from ex-employee Atul Kochhar at Benares just round the corner. While you can still admire the incredible skill from the team of chefs, it is not as enjoyable as food at this price should be. The crowd and staff are as cold as each other, and the food is more variable than you expect from a Michelin star. Any serious gourmet should still check it out, but make careful choices from the menu and do your best not to wince when the bill comes!

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