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The Londoner's Guide to London
11 October 2008
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Tayyabs

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83-89 Fieldgate Street,
Whitechapel,
London,
E1 1JU

0872 148 0521 Calls to 0871 numbers will be charged at a fixed rate of 10p per minute (from a landline or a mobile) no matter where you are within the UK. This number is unique to viewlondon.co.uk.

The ViewLondon Review

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Review byKelly Hussey06/10/2008
Tayyabs is a dining experience that has to be experienced to be believed. Forget Brick Lane and its unending tourist spots, a quiet side street in the heart of East London’s Whitechapel holds the very epitome of a hidden gem. This traditional Pakistani restaurant is as impressive as it gets – the unending queue alone is something to admire.

The Venue
Tayyabs is a bit of a trek for anyone who’s not local to this part of East London. However, people come from far and wide to see what all the fuss is about – and it’s easy to see why…

Walking down Fieldgate Street – a small, dark alleyway behind Whitechapel High Street – you may be forgiven for being a little dubious about what you might find. When the neon red Tayyabs sign comes seemingly out of nowhere it doesn’t exactly look like the incredible restaurant that it’s so famed to be. However, huge glass windows showing off the crammed in tables and huge crowds will quickly put your mind at rest as to its popularity.

The tables here are crammed in to the point where you’ll barely notice the decor. Strangers sit so close they’re practically elbow-to-elbow and there’s little space to breathe, let alone eat. Still, the wide smiles and peels of laughter show people here just don’t care. Upon entering, you’ll see that the restaurant is divided into two separate areas (after they had to expand to cope with demand). To the left is a large dining area with row upon row of hemmed in tables, accommodating differing group sizes. A glass deli counter can be spied towards the back. To the right is a narrow corridor space, made narrower by a few more tables wedged in, expanding out to a glassed-off, elusive VIP space and a second large dining area sandwiched (literally) behind. The slipshod, sardined in spaces may be a little intimidating at first, but it’s made utterly charming by everyone’s sense of dining fun. A large wall lined with glowing reviews and awards shows why this place gets so crammed and gives you something to read whilst you wait. They’re clearly proud of what they have achieved here and aren’t prepared to rest on their laurels, catering as much for local regulars as those who book and travel in from further afield.

The Atmosphere
This is where Tayyabs truly excels. Be prepared to be good natured and queue – for a very, very long time. This is the Alton Towers of restaurants. Even early Friday evening, you’ll be looking at a 45 minute wait for a table for two – longer for larger groups. It’s quite the spectacle as the line snakes its way across the length of the restaurant, curling in and out between tables. It’s certainly not first-come, first-served as they seek to optimise the space to maximum efficiency. At the front of a queue waiting for a table for two? It’s tough luck if a table for four comes up as the staff will make their way down the queue until they find a group to best fill the table. However, everyone who comes here knows this is the deal and patiently await their turn. The spectacle of sizzling meats, piled high, wafting past every five minutes gets the mouth watering enough not to give up and go home. You’ll also have to bite your tongue as regulars and locals are given priority over everyone in the queue. Also, if you’ve booked you’ll not find you get a table at your allotted time, instead you’ll be ushered to the front of line and asked to wait with everyone else.

Remarkably, considering the sheer effort this operation must take to keep it running smoothly, the service here is impeccable. The staff are friendly and full of smiles and the sheer volume of employees means there is always someone a wave away to attend to you. They have an electronic system of taking your order – no pen and pads here – and food will arrive at your table in a timely manner. This is not the place to languish, as the people in the queue glaring hungrily on will attest. People arrive, eat their food and leave promptly and happily. It’s unlike anything you’ll have ever seen. Table turning is not an issue when the food is this good and this cheap. They won’t put pressure on you to get going when you’re done, the unspoken rule is more than audible.

The customers only add to the charm of the restaurant. With the East London Mosque only moments away, there are a huge number of locals from the community who regularly visit, sat elbow-to-elbow with people from as far away as West London, looking quite out of place but ever so happy at having finally experienced something real. The heart of their business is highlighted by the fact that they close for a month in September for Ramadan – putting religion and respect for the community above the desire to make money. You just have to be patient during this time.

The Food
The food here is nothing short of sublime. You could feed a small army for £20 a head. If you’re used to dining at English Indian restaurants and commercial-led places then the lack of korma may disappoint. You may also find yourself a little stumped by the menu – a large, colourful laminated affair with no descriptions. Ask the friendly waiters if you’re stuck.

The real signature is the grilled meats. Chicken Tikka, lamb chops, seekh kebabs – piles of sizzling meat that creates a real centrepiece to the dining experience. Arriving at your table in a sea of spitting oil and smoke, it’s really tactile and people good-humouredly laugh as you wait for it to calm down. The chicken tikka and lamb chops are less than £5 for 4-5 huge pieces of tender, perfectly spiced meat that aren’t too hot for most Western palates. Biting into the chicken, your mouth will explode as your tastebuds are treated to Punjabi food how it is meant to be done. Divine! Don’t be surprised when your main course arrives whilst you’re still tucking into your starter. Plates will be deftly shifted to make room as you see just how greedy you really are – and with good reason when the food tastes this good. The pilau rice is light and fluffy and doesn’t bulk you down too much. The keema nan isn’t the usual fluffy, bread, instead coming in thin pastry, lightly fried so it’s almost crunchy. Simply delicious.

However, it’s the curry that truly impresses. The Karahi chicken Keema comes in a bowl with finely shredded chicken and little in the way of a sauce – allowing the ingredients and spices to shine. And shine they do. Moderately hot, it’s so good you could eat it on its own without the need for rice. At £5 a pop, it’s not going to break the bank either. That said, if you want to splash out on the only option on the menu that breaks the £10 barrier then the Karahi king prawn is just the ticket. It may be pricy by their standards but you get at least ten huge shelled prawns lightly covered in a delicate sauce with the perfect spices added to bring out the seafood flavours. The prawns themselves are thick, juicy and perfectly cooked. Frankly, they’re incredible.

The Drink
The neighbouring off licences have a big reason to love Tayyabs. This Muslim run restaurant doesn’t serve alcohol; however, you’re welcome to bring your own if you so wish and you’ll spy many customers in the queue clutching at blue plastic bags, eagerly awaiting a table. However, if you wish to order off menu then the sweet lassi is highly recommended at just £2. Appearing like a milkshake in a diner-style metal cup, it’s absolutely delicious and counteracts the spices in the food perfectly. Sweet, creamy and thirst-quenching, it’s enough to make even the most die-hard of alcohol fans change their minds.

The Last Word
Tayyabs is nothing short of incredible. Even if you’re not a fan of having queues of people gawking at you whilst you eat, or elbows in your face if you happen to be sat in a table next to the crowds, one bite of your food will melt the craziness of this restaurant away and you’ll soon be beaming from ear to ear alongside a couple of hundred of your fellow diners. Highly recommended.
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