A hop, skip and a jump from Upper Street, Tbilisi combines a fine dining aesthetic with hearty portions of Georgian food.

The Venue
Tbilisi's location is, in some ways, unfortunate. The restaurant may be near Highbury and Islington tube but walking there takes you in the opposite direction from the buzz of Upper Street and onto a stretch of Holloway Road that does not exactly scream fine dining. But Tbilisi's sense of style does go some way towards making up for the unpromising surroundings. An elegant black exterior leads into sleek red decor, with leather chairs and soft lighting.

The Atmosphere
It's a shame that such care has gone into the stylish surroundings when there are so few people to enjoy them. Tbilisi just doesn't seem to be able to get the party started. Small groups are arranged like islands around the dining room, talking in hushed tones, and the noise level rarely rises sufficiently to drown out the inoffensive background music. Of course, this may be the intended effect but eating there does call to mind having a meal in a monastery. This lack of atmosphere is not helped by the service, which, while generally quietly efficient, sometimes lapses into indifference.

The Food
Given the ultra-modern interior stylings, you'd expect the kitchen to come out with fussily arranged morsels. Tbilisi, however, serves up hearty portions of Georgian home cooking from different regions. There are a variety of starter platters available. One combination includes spinach pkhali, a velvety walnut-based paste, and khachapuri, bread of cloud-like softness filled with mildly salty cheese. If you'd prefer to stick to one dish, a salad of carrot, pomegranate and walnut is a riot of textures and subtle tastes.

The mains do not quite live up to the promise of the starters. The menu includes a range of stews, featuring lamb, chicken and beef, which are satisfying but not hugely memorable. Chakapuli, a traditional lamb stew, is a notable exception; the interplay of juices from the lamb, tangy tarragon and sweet plum lingers long on the tongue. Tabaka, a traditional Georgian favourite consisting of succulent grilled chicken, is even more successful. The dish comes with a choice of sauces, all of which are judiciously spiced. The pudding list is not extensive but the available dishes are well prepared. Baked apple with honey and walnuts is subtly spiced, warming and sweet without being cloying.

The Drink
Georgian wine is justifiably popular throughout Eastern Europe and deserves wider recognition. However, many wines from this region tend towards the sweet, such as Khvanchkara (£18.99). Tamada is a decent bet if you're after a dry red. There are also non-Georgian wines and a selection of beers and soft drinks.

The Last Word
An evening at Tbilisi is like taking part in a lunar mission – unusual and well worth the journey, but be prepared for a lack of atmosphere.

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