Expect uncomplicated but refined creativity with an emphasis on quality imported ingredients from a Japanese chef seeking new pastures in Italy, no less.

The Venue
Tucked away in Curzon Street, Tempo is surprisingly inconspicuous from the outside. Step in and the simple ground floor will not make a grand impression either, with clean cut lines and the turquoise upholstery being the only splash of colour in an otherwise cream and wood environment. Walking upstairs, though, things change. The lavish first floor bar and private dining room are where all the beauty is, with walls and ceilings that are stucco decorated and allow you to truly savour the grandeur of period Mayfair town houses. The furnishing is a rather successful mix of old-style sofas and cutting edge minimal tables, chairs and stools.

The Atmosphere
The bar is something of a secret - only a few people seem to be aware it is there but eagle-eyed groups gather here for drinks regardless of if they are having dinner or not. The restaurant is a different game though, with some locals treating Tempo as their reliable, quality quick-fix, while others stay for hours savouring every course. The space gets full rather late: arrive before 8:30 or you may struggle to find a table.

The Food
It's a good idea to start with several cicchetti (bite-sized, £2.25-£4) introducing different flavours without filling you up (although the delicious homemade focaccia is sure to do that anyway). The grilled porcini mushrooms are simply served and taste fresh (like they've been rushed in from those Italian pastures before sunset) and the fine slivers of delicious Parmesan provide body to this wholesome dish. The mussels and clams taste and smell of good shellfish, bringing images of seaside excursions flooding back like a high tide. Try also the grilled sardines (from the antipasti section, £7.75-£12.75). They're flavourful although the bones are a nuisance - especially if you rush in like a frenzied shark - but this is how they should be eaten, and they taste all the better for it. The marinated artichokes are a more civilised option and the mozzarella burrata is so divinely creamy it will lead you happily back to the terra firma.

The butternut squash risotto (pastas and risottos - £8.25-£30.75), is delicate and sweet, with grains perfectly cooked al dente. Most dishes show a pleasing simplicity, but the braised lamb shank (meat and fish - £12.75-£19.75) lacks in presentation as the pool of polenta is covered by an unappetising brown mound of caramelised onions suffocating the lamb. Look away but dig in deep: the tasty lamb falls off the bone on cue. If you still have space for dessert (£5.50-£7), the lemon tart arrives framed like a work of art on a large square plate and art it is indeed - it's exquisite. The sorbets are also extraordinary. If the apple is too subtle, the pear is full bodied, and the strawberries and balsamic vinegar is a delicious and surprising Italian secret.

The Drink
The cellar is well stocked with more than fifty bottles (£18.50-£120 with only a few glasses available at £3.75-£11.75), and more than thirty of those hail from Italy. The Tuscan Meriggio Sauvignon Blanc lures the mind back to the summer with flowers on the nose and nectar, honeydew melon and elderflower on the palate. The bar also serves a selection of contemporary, house and classic cocktails (£7.50-£8). The Mojito is particularly bitter but maybe that’s the fashion down Mayfair way.

The Last Word
The chef is from Japan but the food is uncompromisingly authentic. Tempo is in fact an ideal place where to forget stereotypes - Italy has always been keener on exquisite ingredients than on meatballs and creamy sauces and the Japanese chef at Tempo shows a very tasty appreciation of just that fact.

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