Hidden on a back street in Fitzrovia, you’ll forget the slightly unpretty surroundings as soon as you step inside.

The Venue
The warm Italian welcome transports you to any local eatery in the heart of the Mediterranean, one you might stumble across after a day exploring on holiday (rather than a long day in the office). The decor is a little like a grotto, with fairy lights, twinkling threads and leafy adornments - a sprig of mistletoe wouldn’t be out of place. Whilst this gives it a vaguely dated feel, the festivity does fit comfortably amongst the dark wooden table and chairs in the small dining room, stretching back to the kitchen where you can catch a glimpse of the chefs at work.

The Atmosphere
Service is leisurely, with enough time to build up your appetite between courses, but also enough time to enjoy the temptations on the menu as you make your choices over a glass of wine at the start of the evening. There’s a steady stream of customers, adding to the quiet buzz and proving the justified popularity of the place.

The Food
Starters are delicious and portions are plentiful. Meltingly soft baby squid (£5.35) contrasts with the crispier tentacles, charred with a mild chilli and garlic crust and lines of the grill. Tiger prawns (£5.95) are succulent, tail on and sauteed in fresh chunks of tomato with two crisp garlic butter-soaked breads to scoop up the sauce.

For main course the grilled swordfish (£10.95) is full of flavour. Honey and mustard sauce is less sweet than expected and works well with the meaty fish, which is drier than a catch fresh from the sea, possibly overdone or just a reminder that we’re actually in central London. The accompanying garlicky spinach and mushrooms have good texture, and the fresh tomato and shallot salsa is crunchy and acidic, adding another complementary taste to the mix. Lamb skewers (£10.75) are the essence of Morocco, beautifully cooked and soft, in a subtly spiced sauce with hints of cumin, paprika and coriander. It’s served alongside a simple spoonful of turmeric couscous, taking on the flavours of the dish, or if you’d prefer, go for a bowlful of hot more-ish chips.

Desserts are disappointing, but perhaps the fare resembles what’s often on offer after a meal abroad. Champagne and strawberry mousse (£4.95) is cased in a synthetic-tasting sponge and is overly sweet without any sign of alcoholic bubbles; it almost dissolves on your tongue. The raspberry coulis, however, tastes bafflingly fresh - a mark of potential. Cappuccino bombe is again a very sweet with coffee ice cream in a white chocolate shell, with an unsightly blob of chocolate-flavoured goo in the centre. Perfectly edible, but could definitely do better.

The Drink
A selection of wines from Italy start at £3.20 or £12.95 for a bottle of house and range up to around £20, with an affordable prosecco (£24) and house Champagne (£35) too. The house white is like a refreshing grape juice, lovely to drink with all of the equally fresh home cooking.

The Last Word
The backstreet location just adds to Terra’s easy charm – authentic quality and character that’s difficult to find in the heart of London.

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