Terrace at Jumeirah Lowndes Hotel

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21 Lowndes Street,
Knightsbridge,
London,
SW1X 9ES

(020) 7858 7250

The ViewLondon Review

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Review byStephen Farmer18/06/2010
Bringing barbecue culture to Knightsbridge, The Terrace is a pricey, yet impressive place that’s great for some after work drinks or dinner in warm weather.

The Venue
Tucked behind the back of the Jumeirah Lowndes Hotel, this smart little alfresco restaurant is good enough to keep up with its illustrious Knightsbridge neighbours, with a stylish little decked dining area snuggled between high-end estate agents, imposing Victorian town houses and other fashionably expensive eateries. This garden setting is covered by huge parasols keeping the heat off and the atmosphere in, with the option of a heater for when the sun goes down. The canteen-esque cooking and service area looks a little makeshift, but the fact that it can probably be packed away like a trellis table at the first sign of inclement weather is, one presumes, an admirable wink to the traditional British summer. It’s certainly a perfectly pleasant place to while away a summer’s evening though, especially in an area where outside seating is at a premium.

The Atmosphere
Packed to its parasols when the sun’s out, and not exactly empty when grey skies are rolling, The Terrace features everyone from quiet hotel guests and well-to-do women with wine, to hilariously pompous old prigs inadvertently patronising the impeccable, friendly and helpful staff – but those types are always amusing and add to the kind of bustling atmosphere you rarely get around here. Just be aware that it can get extremely busy on balmy evenings, so do get there early, or be prepared to wait for a table.

The Food
The Terrace does the kind of summery food you might expect, so it’s predominantly barbecued meats, vegetable kebabs, salads, fresh fruit plates and light bites. The large tin grill that smokes aromatically away is certainly kept the busiest, and when it produces a mango chicken salad starter (£9.50) as good as here it’s easy to see why. Its size and price probably means it should be a main, but the combination of impeccably charred chicken, salad, mango, Peppadew peppers and sweet chilli dressing is very nicely balanced. The hummus (£5.50) is a more suitable starter, even if it’s nothing to get too excited about, served with warm toasted pitta and some pretty good mixed olives.

Again, the grill is the best place to go for mains, and although prices are on the steep side they’re still just about acceptable. The rotisserie roasted baby chicken (£15) boasts a gentle spice to its skin, but also comes with a little tub of Piri-Piri sauce just in case you want a little more piquancy, and is served with some excellent shoestring fries and a passable salad. The lamb kofta kebabs (£17.50) might err on the mean side for such a steep price, but it is obviously very good quality lamb, nicely spiced and sitting atop a surprisingly impressive tomato and onion salad that’s dressed with some very virgin olive oil.

To finish, the crème brulee (£5) is exquisite, with vanilla-rich cream given a thick lid of caramel that soon goes from crunch to chew, just as it should. The ice cream cones (£3.50) have ‘cornetto’ in inverted commas for a reason - primarily because they are nothing of the sort – but at least you get some good quality ice cream in your standard wafer cone.

The Drink
An extensive drinks list sees good priced cocktails and bottled beers vie for attention amongst Champagne, fresh fruit juices, extravagantly priced glasses of Coke (£4) and some excellent whiskies. If you’re going for wine though - which most seem to - the list isn’t extensive by any stretch of the imagination, but the options impressive nonetheless, with three bottles of each colour starting at £20 and hurtling to just over £40. The house red, a Santo Isidro Tinto 2009 (£20) from Portugal shows just how good they are. Served perfectly at room temperature it’s a soft and fruity bin that’s certainly worth the mark up.

The Last Word
It can be expensive but when you’re sitting in the sun sipping wine whilst someone else is charged with getting the smoke in their eyes, The Terrace is a great retreat to relax in and enjoy some good barbecued food.
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