Boasting an ambitious menu at fair prices, Texture is a welcome newcomer to the London dining scene.

The Venue
The Best Western on Portman Square is a rather surprising location for a champagne bar and restaurant, but despite this Texture is a classy venue. High ceilings and white walls create a spacious, if slightly clinical feel with soft lighting and unobtrusive modern artwork. The decor is subtle and understated but provides a suitable backdrop for a restaurant which clearly puts food and drink at the heart of it's offering, and rightly so.

The Atmosphere
Texture can seat up to 60 and tables are well spaced. It is the kind of restaurant which is likely to be at least half full on most nights of the week with mostly couples and small groups. Despite this the large space can feel somewhat empty and conversation levels rarely rise above a reverent hushed murmur. Service is intimate, professional and personal without feeling intrusive. Each dish is carefully explained and glasses are discretely refilled at regular intervals.

The Food
The brevity of the a la carte menu does not make choosing any easier, with each dish made to sound as good as the next. Luckily whilst you decide you can whet your appetite with assorted crisps of cod skin, Parmesan and potato accompanied by a wasabi emulsion, a selection of warm breads and an amuse bouche from the kitchen. If you want to make life even easier Texture also offers two reasonably priced tasting menus which encompass a good selection of dishes.

Starters at Texture are true works of art. Ingredients arranged in a seemingly random, yet instantly aesthetically pleasing fashion and bold colours smeared across grey slate plates combine to create dishes that almost look too good to eat. Fortunately the food lives up to appearances. The Anjou pigeon comes cooked to perfection, tender, deep red in colour and rich in flavour. This is offset by a vibrantly yellow sweetcorn puree and crunchy bacon popcorn.

The main courses combine an impressive array of constituent parts to surprisingly good effect and come equally well presented. The Icelandic cod is accompanied by coco beans, avocado, and chorizo all lending the dish their own distinctive colours, textures and flavours. Off the dessert menu the most intriguing option is certainly the lemongrass and ginger soup, which comes with figs and raspberries and a passion fruit sorbet. The sugar spun fennel and cardamom ice cream also add an unusual twist to the chocolate Valrhona.

After dinner you can enjoy coffee in the bar area. Even if you feel as though you have eaten your fill the unusual selection of petit fours is not to be missed, including honey jellies, anise and coffee macaroons and lemon and thyme madeleines. You won't find any after eights but for minty freshness the fisherman's friend meringues are a great alternative.

The Drink
As you would expect the wine and champagne list at Texture is extensive including some rare and expensive vintages. However, there is also a good selection of affordable wines including several that are available by the glass. Tell the Sommelier what type of drink you are looking for and sit back and enjoy his recommendation.

The Last Word
Texture offers serious, innovative food without pretension and provides a great dining experience from start to finish. Highly recommended.

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